A Very Spanish Christmas and New Year


This Christmas, my boyfriend and I chose to remain in Madrid. We had considered returning to the UK but the prospect of confronting; the packing of many suitcases, the crazy airports and masses of people, delayed flights, bad weather, the hustle and bustle of the usual Christmas shopping frenzy (in ALL stores, but especially supermarkets, where food hoarders fight over the last Turkey!), the lack of personal transport and general malaise of UK Christmas cheer – in short, this bedlam really didn’t hold its usual appeal! So, we decided, sensibly, to stay put and experience a Spanish Christmas.

I admit, I was pleased and relieved to be staying in Madrid for Christmas, so too was my boyfriend. It saved us a lot of angst and hassle, plus, it has been great just having time to ourselves. We don’t seem to have enough quality ‘us’ time, and being here meant not having the usual obligations to please anyone, but ourselves!!! Selfish, it might be, but true!

In all, Christmas here hasn’t been such a culture shock. We have managed to buy the food we needed without hassle, without pushing and shoving and fighting in the aisles for the Brussel Sprouts or pigs in blankets! I did feel slightly peeved; I couldn’t buy any Mince Pies, Cranberry Sauce or my beloved Bread Sauce (the Spanish don’t know quite what they are missing out on!), and my home made gravy lacked its usual pizazz due to me forgetting to buy in extra stock cubes. Yet, regardless of this and the fact Spanish Christmas cakes and sweets just aren’t all that, we managed to survive!!!

We listened to Christmas songs and carols from King’s College Cambridge (the best Christmas carol choir service). We opened our presents, even though the Spanish wait until the Three Kings (6th January). We didn’t have a tree or any decorations, but then I knew we wouldn’t be buying those this year. We celebrated Boxing Day (26th December) by going out for a fabulous dinner and indulging in some lovely cocktails, although the Spanish don’t celebrate Boxing Day.

So, we didn’t miss out on anything really. However, I did think that it would be a quiet Christmas, as it was going to be just the two of us, but I couldn’t have been more wrong!

Nearly every night we have been out and about, far more actually than we would have been in the UK. On our doorstep are cafes, bars, clubs and restaurants. It has been easier to have fun and celebrate the holidays just because we are in the heart of the city. We can, on a whim, just go where we want, when we want and don’t need to rely on anyone else or fit into anyone else’s schedule. It has been great!

Don’t get me wrong, I love my family and friends to bits!! I also enjoy spending time with them, and miss them dearly!!! Yet, Christmas in the UK can sometimes become, well, a little bit claustrophobic. Let me explain; I think people get stuck in a Christmas rut, a routine whereby every Christmas ends up becoming the same, without any real changes. Most importantly, the fun factor is often left out of the equation for one reason or another. This Christmas though, hasn’t been in anyway ‘rutified’ (Definition: to be put into the mould of a rut – I know it isn’t a genuine word!).

This Christmas has been a change of scene, it has been something different, we have come and gone as we pleased and we’ve had fun. This is why for me, in many ways, this Christmas has been one of the best. I always wanted to go away for Christmas, but hadn’t felt I could before, because of not wanting to upset my family and make them think I didn’t want to be with them. It is considered to be somewhat selfish, doing your own thing at Christmas; it is after all fundamentally about being with family and friends.

Yet, by living in Madrid we had a legitimate reason for not being there with them at Christmas time, even though for the previous two Christmases we returned to the UK to be with them. This time, we wanted a change though, we wanted to make the most being in Madrid. We haven’t got that long a time remaining here, this time next year we will in fact have already moved back to the UK. So, understandably we wanted to maximise every opportunity that being here affords us, which includes, a Spanish Christmas.

Hopefully then, we haven’t been deemed too selfish, as I do know our family and friends have enjoyed their Christmases too (even without us there with them)!

So, now Christmas time is over (very nearly over), I have, as most people do, been remembering all that has happened in 2013. More specifically, the life I have lived here in Madrid during this time. Although being out here for these few years hasn’t been all plain sailing, I feel that this year has been a year for positive changes. I feel quite good about things. I am also feeling quite saddened by the prospect of not being here in Madrid for next Christmas. It does seem as though this chapter of my life will soon enough come to an abrupt close, and without any fanfare I will be back where I was, as though these few years in Madrid never happened. How weird!

So, for my boyfriend and I it is even more important than ever before to enjoy the time we have left living in Spain!!! This Christmas sort of encapsulates that momentum we feel, the fact that we want to have fun and experience life to the fullest without feeling bad about about doing so!!

Anyway, before I become maudlin, and I don’t even have New Years Eve as an excuse, let me say I have thoroughly enjoyed the ups and downs of my time in Madrid (and hopefully will enjoy the year to come)! When the time comes and we depart for the UK, I can take back with me a whole new perspective and life experiences. As someone, at sometime once said; “nothing good can last forever”; maybe not, but I can of course treasure the memories forever!

So, here’s to a fabulous New Year – for me, you and everyone out there in the world!!!

I shall be celebrating my New Years Eve in Puerta del Sol, drinking some alcohol and some eating grapes (not as strange as it might sound – it is a Spanish tradition to eat grapes as the clock strikes to signal the new year).

Where-ever YOU are and what-ever YOU do, have fun and enjoy every last minute of 2013!!!!!!

Top Ten Things That Shock Brits In Spain


This post has come as a response to a feature article from an online newspaper/magazine, which reports Spanish news in English. The publication is called ‘The Local’.

The article by reporter Alex Dunham; ‘Top Ten Things That Shock Spaniards In The UK’, made me immediately have a response with the opposite opinion.

What is shocking for us ex-pat Brits in Spain?

Well ponder no longer as I have constructed a list for you all to peruse!!!

Here are the top ten I have come across; not just me though, I am not that biased folks! Others I know have raised these points too, and they definitely make a worthy top ten.

Manners: Let us forget Spain as the traditional, quaint and quiet little idle, full of flamenco and sangria. This is not the Spain of today! The people in Madrid can be grumpy, rude, ignorant, pushy and annoying like any other nation’s inhabitants can be!! It is a shock to realise they say ‘speak to me’ upon answering a telephone or greeting a customer. People will normally reply with ‘I want’ and ‘give me’, which are demands many from the UK might be uncomfortable with! Yet, odd manners are replicated out on the street, metro and in general too. People will quite happily barge you out of way, won’t think twice about hogging the isles in supermarkets, and of course jump queues; all of which is quite normal in most countries though! They may not be Spain specific, but are still annoying!

Time: Lateness is normal in Spain. Meet friends and expect to wait at least 30 minutes for them to arrive. OK, the relaxed atmosphere surrounding social gatherings encourages this, but in business, not a good idea. Most nations respect and expect punctuality, otherwise how would any deal get done, and any work get completed? It is just common sense, be on time to the office!

Vacations: Some companies apply a summer timetable. In effect people begin work early and finish early. Great, and yet I don’t know anyone in the UK who finishes work at 2 or 3 in the afternoon, just because it is summertime. Not to forget the long lunch hours! Oh, and that some places close for the entire of August!

Binge Drinking V’s Drinking Everyday: Spaniards drink daily. They are allowed to have a drink during their lunch break, even on company premises! They can buy alcohol in the cinema! Drinking is encouraged; a sherry after dinner, followed by beer and wine and then finish off with cocktails after 1.00 AM. Alcohol is sold in any cafe, bar, restaurant and club until the small hours, but you won’t be able to purchase it at the supermarkets after 10.00 PM. That rule makes ALL the difference!

Shopping: Certain shops run on a repeat loop; every street you walk down seems to have the usual suspects – Tiger, Starbucks, H&M, Zara, Lefties, Cafe & Te, Bijou Brigitte, Bershka, and so on. Also, Pharmacies are BIG in Madrid. You cannot purchase a little pack of paracetamol from Carrefour (Supermarket), ONLY from a Pharmacy. Yet, from that same Pharmacy you can be sold a pack of highly addictive Codeine based painkillers without a prescription.

Skimpy Outfits: Now Spain has ample excellent weather for the women of the country to parade around in skimpy outfits, so just because they have to wear a coat in winter to cover up on the streets, doesn’t mean their dress sense has suddenly become demure. No-one is that easily fooled!

Home Design: Home decoration tends to favour flounce and frills, brown and pinks, flowers and dark wood. It is quite traditional, and dare I say, a little 1980’s! The other odd thing I have noticed is that wherever there is a bathroom, the make of the suite is always ROCA! A little weird!

Food: Wholesome and healthy, well, I suppose in some places it can be. Yet, a favoured Madrid dish, fried Calamari on baguettes, doesn’t constitute as such! Olives, processed pork, tortilla, chips and fries don’t fit that bill either!!

Make Under: Women in Madrid ARE tan fanatics. They sunbathe in local parks, and break the cardinal rule by not applying sun-cream! Women don’t often dress up (as in going out on the town) or differently. Let me explain; I see plenty of plain clothes such as jeans, shorts, little skirts and tee shirts. These are all over Madrid, they are the norm for summer and winter. Fashion seems to be quite regimented in many parts of Madrid, and for those who like to embrace expressing themselves via fashion, they will find people staring at them oddly! Britain’s urban chic is however slowly catching on in certain areas within Madrid, which is good news!

Tea: great if you happen to favour the green variety or flavoured fruit teas, not if you want milk and sugar! Oh, and they aren’t fan of kettles here in Madrid; microwaves are used to heat up drinking water. Their coffee, well, it is the same as ordering a coffee in any other bar (etc.) in any other country, it is just coffee!

OK, I had to add in another point for good measure, hehe!!

Personal Space: Now the Spanish air kissing or facial kisses are fine with me, well, ordinarily. Yet, meeting people for the first time, and them expecting to get up, close and personal, is a little off putting. I like close contact and am not afraid of hugging people, but I do love my personal space too. On the Metro people will come and sit right next to you, even if there are ample seats available elsewhere. They are there up and close to you; talking loudly, snogging their boyfriend/girlfriend, allowing their children to stamp all over your feet, or applying their make-up. Oh, and in the parks, expect to see extreme make out sessions in full swing!!

Don’t get me wrong here, I do enjoy living in Madrid. It is just that NO country is perfect!!! I would be THE first to stand up and say that UK has it’s own issues too!

Hope you like the list? Please let me know what are your top ten shocks from the countries you have visited or lived in. I would be interested to know your experiences and of course, opinions!

Return To The UK


Today I catch my flight back to the UK, and I am not sure how long I will be staying there this time.

I am worried as usual, I hate flying; all the messing about of waiting in queues, and baggage handling and security, and blah, blah, blah! I also hate the turbulence, and of late feel as though I could be sick during landing (which is never a good thing to feel, but especially on a plane)!

I am also worried, afraid even, that more bad things will happen – this ‘Mercury in Retrograde’ has me a little freaked out. I feel more paranoid than usual, sorry to Gwen at  gwendolynndedanaan.wordpress.com. Though, Gwen has given reason to the bad things that have occurred of late, it explains why all hell has broken out. I feel I sorely NEED to learn to master these ‘other worldly’ things that can control my life for the worst! I don’t want to have to face even more of them, well, not now anyway!!!

I mean – how long does Mercury in Retrograde last?? Has anyone else felt or undergone some horrible things, particularly horrible things lately??? It can’t be just me being kicked about by the universe; I’d like some company please!

Anyway, I need to maintain positivity, as worse things do happen everyday. I have to think of things calmly, which would be normally a little easier with a good nights sleep!!! Keeping everything in perspective is difficult when I am not sleeping so well, I therefore tend to feel less cheerful.

Things will get better (smile and breathe)!

Once I am in the UK I will try as often as is physically and mentally possible to get to a computer to update posts, and answer questions, or comments or whatever else! Yet, bear with me as I might not be my usual super-speedy self, as WordPress updates won’t be part of my daily routine (lacking internet connection will no doubt hinder me at some point too).

Also, I am returning to the UK to attend to other issues (which are plenty enough to contend with). Once again my computer time will be limited when I am in the UK, as I know I’m going to be crazy and mad busy, and completely preoccupied with everything else.

So, though I will have less of a presence on WordPress than usual – I will endeavour to try to keep everyone (my readers), updated and reply to you as I can.

I wish you all well, and please take care!!

Speak soon,

Bex 🙂

The Language Exchange


Yesterday or more precisely, last night, I attended another one of those English and Spanish language exchanges. Here in Madrid they are called; ‘Intercambios’.

Last night was OK, I seem to be settling into the routine and environment of the particular Intercambio I attend. I have made a few friends actually, but the reason I initially began attending Intercambios wasn’t really to make friends.

The idea behind these language exchanges are that people who wish to learn English or Spanish can meet at these organised events, and then together they can work to improve their language skills.

In Madrid Intercambios are popular. For me it has been a huge shock discovering just how popular. Many people here are eager to perfect their English – which they will tell you is bad, and yet it isn’t! They speak very good English, which again shocked me, as you rarely hear them doing so, even if you ask them.

People here actually learn English via work or from school, well, the younger generations learn in school. Courses and classes here can be expensive, so people flood to these Intercambios hoping to practice and speak English for free. So, I held out hope to also be able to chat away in my ‘Spanglish’, or gain the much needed confidence to actually speak Spanish as well as I do when no-one is listening to me!!

Having spent a significant time dedicated to attempting to learn Spanish, and also time slacking off from this task; I came to think, in my infinite wisdom, that Intercambio (language exchange) evenings would be the way to achieve language perfection.

Oh dear, how misled were my judgements on such things.

The main issue for me is that Intercambios are 99.9% of the time run from a bar/club, where loud music can hinder understanding, and also people tend to enjoy drinking alcohol, more than perhaps actually learning anything. I for one am guilty of this!

OK, alcohol plays a huge part in lowering inhibitions and boosting confidence, but also after a couple of drinks retaining any new information, in relation to learning, well, it isn’t so conducive.

Have I learnt anything so far from attending them?? Well a couple of words, but not substantial conversation or fantastical language confidence!

In fact even finding an Intercambio set up I was comfortable with at first, was trial and error.

My first experience with Intercambios was actually as I expected it would be, surprisingly. Bar, alcohol,
men and women = well, a hunting ground for sex. Not really my idea of learning a language!

This first Intercambio, 3 friends and myself  attended together. As soon as us women entered the bar (which was full of men), immediately I detected their eyes fix upon us, and I just knew why! Their necks were all strained like Meerkats on the lookout!! They weren’t interested in run of the mill conversation, let me just say that!

Anyway, intimidating, yes, very; we were not there to meet men for sex.

So, my judgement of Intercambios had been tainted; I felt it was really a euphemism for a ‘pick up’ opportunity, rather than a legitimate language exchange or learning experience.

Anyway, not being one to give up, I decided to persevere and give the Intercambios another shot.

The second Intercambio I attended, although the setting remained within a bar, I didn’t get a ‘pick up’ joint vibe. So, it seemed as though this one might just provide me an opportunity to learn, and practice Spanish.

This was the theory, but it has never quite transpired to practice.

Reason being is when a friend and I checked into this particular Intercambio, we looked at the attendee register, and immediately noticed everyone there was Spanish. 98% of them wanted to learn English!!!! Us two, being the only fluent English speakers present – damn!

Seems as though we would be the free English tutors for the evening – and that thought unnerved me.

As soon as the people present heard our accents, all eyes were trained upon us! They turned eagerly, desperate to get the opportunity to talk to us about anything, so long as they could speak to us in English. It was once again an intimidating situation, but for very different reasons than the first Intercambio disaster. We were again centre of attention without even wanting to be! I then thought, thank God I have never been famous, I’d never have coped with all that attention!

I was a little freaked out to say the least; put on the spot and I almost felt like a cabaret act – like I should do a little dance or something! I felt myself squirm inwardly as we were paraded about the bar, and then introduced to about 10 strangers. We were expected then to get on with our tuition of these Spanish strangers! It was weird!

Consequently I could only speak in English for the first hour, and then only a little Spanish thereafter. I was on edge all night – I felt so nervous of all the attention and questioning. Though, they were nice people, it was still a full on experience and not one I am usually used to; speaking on demand like a pet! I wasn’t a happy bunny!

This way of learning is not for me, I cannot learn like this. I need to feel comfortable to speak to a person in a foreign language – I don’t know why. I struggle, I feel my mind goes blank. Plus, how often do we trade information, that is perhaps personal, with complete strangers? Not often. It is quite an unnatural setting.

A Spanish friend of mine actually described the Intercambios as a form of speed dating, and they could be. It is like repeating yourself, and making good impressions, being on your best behaviour, and hiding your true self to score points! I have never been part of a speed dating event, but I imagine people must feel the same – on show, on the spot and feel they are being assessed and judged even!

It is a weird environment for sure, and one I just feel I am not comfortable in, yet every week I still attend, like a glutton for punishment! As I have already stated though I have met some nice people, so this is a good thing, yet, I am not really fulfilling my main aim – to learn Spanish!

Yet, at least I am making friends. So, there is still hope to eventually be fluent in Spanish, one day!

I Have Returned, Or Have I?!


Hello one and all!!!

I have returned from my travels and will soon be updating my blog with a post about Rome!

Yipppeeee, you may be saying – or not!

I have just been trying to organise my thoughts, as well as my laundry! So, bear with me please people!

I also have so many photos to sift through, I now quite literally sick of seeing Rome!

Anyway, I shall be back blogging within the next couple of days. Right now I admit I am still reluctant to re-enter the world of online chatter, as I STILL have my holiday head on!

Love to you all 🙂

Bex

Quick teaser photo; prizes for anyone who can guess where this was taken!!!!

DSCF7160

ROME Here I Come!!!!!!!!!!


ROME!!!!

ROME!!!!

So, on Saturday I am off to Rome for a few days; I am one happy girlie!!!

I must admit I am looking forward to the change of scene; new experiences in another new city!!

I intend to follow the ‘good’ tourist guide 100%. I want to see all the famous sights, and of course sample the cuisine or pizza to be more precise 🙂

Consequently all shall be quiet on the blog front, but when I return I’ll have plenty to update you all on; that is if everything goes to plan!

Have a good weekend people,

Bex 🙂

 

My Miniature Disaster.


Wow, what a morning! I had plans to meet up with a friend, but man, getting there was easier said than done!

So, what follows is a break down of my disastrous morning into miniature steps;

 

1) I woke up tired from another bad nights sleep.

2) Upon completing my morning ablutions there was a power cut!

3) I didn’t check my emails; not so bad I hear you think, read on please……

4) I thought I was running very late, therefore I rushed about like a crazy lady trying to recoup lost time, which I hate doing.

5) I rushed out of the house without my usual bottle of water, without my coat and let me add it is FREEZING cold here today. Momentarily I thought about returning to the apartment to rectify these errors, but of course I was late!

6) The wind was so strong it kept blowing my hat of my head.

7) I had to catch two trains, and felt stressed out waiting for both at the respective Metro stations!! Note to reader: I have to be in the right frame of mind to travel on the Metro. Anytime it becomes packed to the rafters I begin to become ever so uneasy. There is something about overly warm closed spaces underground, and confined metal boxes with more people than air that tends to make me sometimes freak out!

8) I got off at the wrong Metro station, who knows why, but I did.

9) I walked to and waited in Parque del Retiro, bearing in mind I was bloody freezing! I then received a text from my friend.

10) This is where number 3 comes back to bite me! My friend proceeded to inform me she had emailed me that morning as she was running late too. She had to teach another class, which had been rescheduled!

11) Great!! I then realised I was over an hour early waiting about in the cold with nothing particular to do, oh and I still had no coat!

12) I then walked some more just to warm up. Everyone by this time noticing I had no coat and no doubt thinking to themselves; ‘this girl with no coat is either crazy or a tourist’.

13) Number 13, unlucky for some, yes it is! I was about to go for a coffee at one of my favourite café’s, but upon doing so I bumped into a ‘friend’ I really didn’t want to see. Bad terms and an ending is all I will say……..

14) My luck is on the mend!!!! I actually get to meet up with my friend at the college she teaches at!!!

 

The happy ending!!!!

A few weeks ago I met a couple of other students at the college my friend teaches at. They are really nice people, and good company. I wasn’t expecting to see them today. I had told one about my blog last time we spoke and he said he had enjoyed reading my posts, which made me happy! He also loves talking to me about vintage shopping here in Madrid, which always makes me happy.

Then there was another unexpected interruption. A student from the UK (Manchester), came over and was ‘over the moon’ to hear my accent. He said he was feeling a little ‘out of it’ because he hadn’t heard another British person speak since leaving the UK to come to study in Madrid. I think he was on the verge of succumbing to hugging me! Well, being deprived of the ‘English’ accent has that effect on you! Madrid doesn’t seem to be a place over-run with the British, well, not yet anyway!

Anyway, after a warming cup of coffee, and a good chat with Laura in English and of course Spanish, I got
home for about 3:00 starving hungry. Only to discover the electric had ‘tripped’ out again!!

I am still freezing from my day in the cold, and hope I don’t catch a cold, as I have discovered I have run out of vitamins! In Madrid vitamins are an expensive commodity, so I am annoyed!

Oh, and the bad luck, well it has seemingly just reared its ugly head once more. Just been told the rent is due to go up in the New Year, thanks!

Contracts in Spanish, well, that is another post altogether!

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The Fallen Angel Of Madrid – El Ángel Caído De Madrid


The Fallen Angel in Retiro Park

I mentioned this briefly yesterday in my post One Year In Madrid. I wanted to go into a bit more detail about this statue and how I discovered it; as I am fascinated by it.

After my first visit to Madrid I was informed that in Parque del Retiro there was a statue of Lucifer, the Fallen Angel. Which might not seem significant or interesting to most people, but as a confirmed believer and ‘lover’ of the supernatural and paranormal my reaction was; ‘No way, I have to see it!’

My curiosity about this statue was further piqued when I was also told that it is apparently the only statue of Lucifer in existence! So, I figured it had to be important and significant. I also wondered why it was in Madrid and how it found its way here.

On my second visit to Madrid I planned my pilgrimage to Retrio Park, with one motive in mind; to seek and find this statue. I had to see it for myself. So never being much of a map reader, not even park maps, I decided to locate it. I walked, and walked and to be honest got confused as although Retiro Park is split into avenues, with signage, I couldn’t find the signage to confirm my direction. Typical!!

Giving up on the map to guide me to Lucifer I just walked, and thought I’d find it, and I did.

It was quite weird seeing this statue loom up into the distance, set at such a lofty height upon a pedestal of stone, proud, and for all to see.

It was a cold and cloudy quiet morning, being about 10:00, and I was alone; just me and Lucifer.

Immediately my imagination sprung into life, and I have even included this statue in a story I have written. I wondered what tales this statue could tell.

Try as I might, I haven’t found anyone who has related any supernatural tales or satanic events being concentrated upon this statue or the area surrounding area. So, needless to say I am disappointed. Yet, Lucifer is THE symbol of evil, so there has to be something the people of Madrid aren’t admitting to. I have written in The Halloween Extravaganza that people in Madrid tend to shy from the topics of ghosts and devils, so maybe this is the reason why no tales are being told?

Yet, I know people who run in the park regularly and they tell me that just as they reach this statue they feel exhaustion hit them, and consequently they feel the urge to quit running! Is it Lucifer exerting his will over them??

The history of the statue:

The piece was sculpted by Ricardo Bellver for the 1878 Exposition Universelle (World’s Fair) in Paris. After it was exhibited here the statue was acquired by the curators of Museo Nacional del Prado in Madrid, now maybe they saw the evil residing quietly in the statue as they quickly gave it over to the city. Where the powers that be decided to position it in the park, and of course it still resides there today.

Now as Madrid and Spain per se are a Catholic nation, whether practising their religion or not, I can’t help but wonder how well received this statue was or is?

Some may think the statue merely depicts Lucifer’s fall from grace. It is a warning to be heeded by all that see him that if he can fall from his ‘pedestal’ then anyone can. Or, is it celebrating him and all his evil glory? I prefer the latter!

I think what makes this story all the more interesting for me is that a few weeks ago I learnt from a friend that Lucifer actually stands at precisely 666 meters above sea level!!!!! Now how the Hell (no pun intended) did they achieve that???!!!! Coincidence you may say, well, I don’t believe in them, so I think that was an act done on purpose by someone’s authority! Who, I will never know.

I can’t help but wonder if this innocuous statue of Lucifer is so innocent after all? I urge you to look again people! Maybe he is merely lying in wait, biding his time for the opportunity to escape the shackles of the statue and walk freely upon the earth!

Yet, that can’t really happen can it?

I mean, it is only a statue after all…………OR IS IT?!

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One Year In Madrid


Well, as it is coming up to my one year anniversary in the capital of Spain I thought I’d do a sort of recap of my time here that would also include some of the things I have learnt and my favourite places.

I am certain I have previously mentioned that I had visited Madrid about 3 times previous to officially moving here, so it was somewhat familiar to me. Yet, until you live in a place you never really know it, but upon writing that I know that I don’t know everything there is know about Madrid still!!! Life to me is a constant learning curve, so I always enjoy discovering something new, whether that is a word, a place or a shop!

I can say being here has been the best experience. I feel privileged that I have been provided with this ‘path’ to take in my life, as it was sorely needed. Somewhere someone had to be looking out for me, and I strongly believe that!

Concise Recap Of A Year:

I have learnt a language, and am still learning it. I have become familiar with a great city and feel at home here. I have met lots of people and made friends (I have 3 really good friends here, and in a city I think that is good going). I have a really good social life, and access to so many varied avenues of entertainment; even watching plays and musicals in Spanish has been great (though at first I doubted it could be)! I have been to so many places since moving here; the first 6 months was hectic!!! I have ticked off some of my ‘to do’s’ on my ‘bucket list’ and have more to also look forward to experiencing, such as a trip to Rome in December!!!!!! So excited about that!!!!

The advertisement for Grease, we went to see it in the summer at a theatre on Gran Via.

I have written about initial experiences in this post. You can read it to get more of a background of Madrid as a city:The Real Madrid Experience

A Change Of Scene:

I have even experienced the health care here. I don’t know whether I have written about my one and only (crossed fingers and hope I need never go again), hospital visit?? Again, I was lucky to have two Doctors and a nurse who spoke and understood English! I can’t fault the health care I had; it was as good as it gets when you’re ill and in need.

On Friday, I also finally managed to officially register to receive health care here!! A big YIPPEEE!!! It has been a long time in the waiting (a year nearly). From this I will then be able to have a Doctor at one of the Medical Centres here, and a Dentist. This does concern me though please me simultaneously; as there is no way my Spanish is ready to be tested to the extent of medical terminology! Another hurdle I may one day need to cross or hopefully not!

All in all I reflect back upon this year and feel proud of my achievements. Just being here is quite crazy! Since I was a little girl I hoped to be able to move away from the UK, but as I finished University and then began pursuing my career I doubted it would happen. Yet, 2011 was when the final change required occurred; for about 2 years previous I felt there would be a massive change, though I didn’t know what form that change would adopt. After a long time feeling as though my life was plunging into an abyss (dramatic but true), I am finally in the light again. I cannot be thankful enough for this opportunity and change.

I feel being in Madrid has made a positive impact and me and my life. I was taken from a bad setting where I felt there was nothing left, to something where there is always more.

Places I Love To Be:

OK, so Madrid has so much to offer and it isn’t always the hustle and bustle of city life that makes me love living here. I have read some reviews from tourists who criticise Madrid for not being very pretty, but I want to say that if they believe that is the case then they weren’t looking at the city properly, and didn’t get to know it well enough to comment!

So, I want to share some of my favourite places to be and to go to in the city, and the reasons why of course! These are the places that make this city great to me!

The Best View:

Best view of the city for me has to be the vista from the top of the Cathedral De Santa Maria La Real De La Almudena. This Cathedral adjoins the courtyard of the Palacio Real de Madrid, which is a stunning part of Madrid anyway! I remember visiting the Cathedral one morning and being the only person standing up there, accompanied only by the statues of the Saints. My stone companions and I were gazing out over the vast city beyond, and it was quite magical to be honest. In that moment it was the most tranquil setting, which induced the same effect onto me too. The view of the city and surrounding areas is fabulous, and cannot really be rivalled in my opinion mainly because of that perfect setting.

Part of the view from the Cathedral

 The Best Architecture:

I’m not a religious person, but the many churches of Madrid are architecturally beautiful and I would urge anyone to pay them a visit. The internal décor too is something quite exquisite, and there is always something about a church that instils awe within me. If there is a service being held too, this is the perfect time to go in and feel the atmosphere. In every city I have ever visited I always go to one of their churches, they are after all a significant part of any countries history. The Cathedral De Santa Maria is beautiful, but there are others also that I love; San Manuel y San Benito near Parque del Retiro, Monasterio De La Encarnacion near Opera, and San Jeronimo El real opposite Museo del Prado.

San Manuel y San Benito

The Best Open Space:

The best open space in Madrid has to be Parque del Retiro. Maybe I am biased as I live very near to it! What I was surprised at when I first visited was that there was a map giving directions, I didn’t realise how vast the place was! It is made up of walk ways, or avenues which are individually named. This park used to be part of the grounds of the original royal palace, and the grandness still lingers on.

Why I love Retiro Park so much is that there you can cycle, skate, skateboard, jog, run and even dance! It makes no difference whether it is dark or light! They also hold yoga, dance, jogging and skating classes, which you can join if you feel like having some company!

It is possible to hire a bike for next to nothing and just spend the day in the park, which we have done and I thoroughly enjoyed it as it added an extra dimension of exploration and I just felt somehow freer! There is also an outdoor gym, which is the best place in Madrid to see ‘Tableta de Chocolate’ or six packs!!! My British friends fell in love with this place in the summer! Ladies be warned!

There is a boating lake, and I have become quite proficient in rowing! I love it, in the summer it is wonderful, and it is great fun. I also love the huge monuments and colonnade to one side of the lake. It is a great place to sit and relax, read, write or even cycle through!

The Colonnade at Retiro Boating Lake

Also in the park there are many ‘wild’ domesticated cats that roam around with the cutest kittens ever! The park is also home to the red Squirrels, and they are not shy, in fact they are quite happy to pose for pictures. This summer we also saw a beautiful black swan, and I don’t think I have ever seen one before.

There is a smaller lake too where the Palacio de Cristal is situated. A lovely building to look at, in houses exhibitions too, but they aren’t worth the visit, yet the building makes up for any disappointment.

There are places to eat, drink and chill out within the park. We usually take a picnic and just sit at the many benches or on the grass areas. Local people also have parties and BBQ’s in the grounds, which is my plan for next summer!

There are also buskers, performance acts, art and photographic exhibitions, markets and anything in between! The park is a hive of activity and a community all on its own. I love being there!

A Statue To Just Admire:

This brings me to my favourite statue in Madrid.  El Angel Caído, or The Fallen Angel. Now I’m not going into too much detail about this yet, as I want to do a separate post dedicated to this statue. All I will say is my first visit to the park was a ‘pilgrimage’ to see this very statue for myself, as I love all things strange and spooky!

Down At The River:

Another great outdoor space which I enjoy cycling in is the Madrid Rio. It is a 10k stretch of park that runs alongside the Manzanares River and offers lots of recreational activities such as; tennis, rock climbing, a skate park and so on. I hire my bike from a rental store just off the River side, it is quite cheap too. People don’t just come here to be active though, in the summer months they also sunbathe close to the River, and they cool down by going into the many water fountains. It is known as ‘the Madrid beach’ because of this! It’s busy in the summer and for me not quite as charming as Retiro Park, but it has some places great little places of interest such as; Puente del Rey Bridge, Virgen del Puerto Chapel, Puente de Segovia bridge and Puente de Toledo Bridge, and the view of the Royal Palace is lovely.

View of Madrid ‘Rio’

The Most Novel Experience:

Another activity I think is a little novel for Madrid is the Teleferico, which are cable cars that run from Templo de Debod to Casa de Campo. They are an alternative, but more expensive travel option to the Campo area, but I used them just so I could again see Madrid from another perspective! The views are great, but to me it was more the oddity of being suspended in the air and travelling over Madrid that I enjoyed the most. Funnily enough it is quite tranquil too, although if you weren’t keen on heights you wouldn’t think so!

A hazy view of the Royal Palace taken from inside the cable cars.

The Coolest Little Café:

The coolest décor of any restaurant / café has to be Le Jardin Secreto on Calle de San Bernardino. This is why I love the place as it is just what is says it is, the secret garden, or an Alice in Wonderland experience. I love it there; it is quite magical and almost, romantic? I know it is an odd description to attach to a restaurant, but I just like how the place makes me feel. Even the tea things are mismatched and something fit for the Mad Hatter’s tea party, it is all a little bit fairytale!

They also offer a fabulous and wide list of drinks; over 25 varieties of hot chocolate, coffees, teas, cocktails alcoholic or not, wines, spirits and beers. Also they have deserts and cooked food. It is a small place though, but that doesn’t bother me so much as the interior has me hooked! It does become busy, very busy. We were last seated in one of the window nooks, and it was like being in our own little secret garden! I ordered a non-alcoholic cocktail made up with ice cream; delicious!

I would suggest arriving there early though, for 6:00, and if you do ever visit there and think a weekend would be a good idea, again get there early or make a reservation!

El Jardin Secreto; looks far more magical at night though!

My Favourite Cocktail:

The strangest cocktail I have tasted, and therefore it has to be my favourite is Leche de Pantera at the club of the same name in Moncloa. It is expensive cocktail, but it is roughly half a litre of alcohol, which is the oddest shade of green I have ever seen! Can’t describe the taste really, it is an odd mix of cinnamon and eggnog??

The Place To Find Anything:

The coolest shop I have found where it is possible to buy almost anything is Tiger. The one on Calle de Fuencarral near Bilboa Metro Station is my favourite because it is spread over two levels, yeh, more things to see and buy!

For those of you who don’t know this chain of shops they sell goods cheaply. Anything from art canvasses, paints, paint brushes, hair accessories, household goods, foods, wool, hats, glasses, candles; as I said anything really! I enjoy just browsing to see what items they have, but I can never leave there without buying something! This was the first place in Madrid I found dried chillies!

The Must See Market:

The best market in Madrid, well, it has to be Mercado San Miguel near Plaza Mayor. Although I have written a post which stated that this market it is on the tourist trail Foodie Heaven it is a must see whilst in Madrid, and is a thoroughly enjoyable place to be to feel the city’s true vibe. What I love about this place is the atmosphere, which cannot be rivalled as it is simply crazy!

I love browsing the stalls, sampling the food and having a drink. I just like to be there, even for 30 minutes or so to absorb the scene. It is busy, crazy, manic, and somewhat expensive and you’ll be lucky to ever get a seat to relax in, but it is worth spending some time and money just to be there. I usually get a little fidgety and begin feeling claustrophobic after the 30 minutes is up, as it is so packed in there, yet, you will never get bored!

My Favourite Stations:

My favourite metro station in Madrid is Goya, I love looking at every framed drawing of the said artist upon the walls. Doesn’t matter how many times I have been there, I still look at the drawings and think cool. Yet, Atocha train Station is my other favourite as it houses a whole garden, with trees and water features neatly installed. They even have live turtles and terrapins. It’s not like any train station I have ever visited before, so strangely subterranean!

The Best Museum:

My favourite museum to visit in the city is the Museo Romántico on Calle San Mateo. This is the closet thing I have found to the stately homes, manor houses and castles of the UK. I love it there, and am quite happy spending a few hours wandering about the rooms, lost in my own mind imagining what life would have been like living there in the 18th century.

This museum is dedicated to displaying a complete environment of how life was for the family who owned the house. The art is not static, like in any other museum in Madrid, but part and parcel of how the house would no doubt have looked during the time it was occupied. As I said it is like a stately home of the UK, but on a smaller scale. This is why I like it so much as the objects have a place, are in their proper context. It is interesting to see it and better than any modern art installation.

Inside The Romantic Museum

My Favourite Club:

My favourite club to visit at the weekends has to be Café Central. The atmosphere is so cool and relaxed and the live music is great. It doesn’t matter to me who are playing as they never disappoint. I get there 9:00 to ensure I get a seat! I like to be near the band, so early is good for me, as I don’t want to be standing up all night! The service here is great too, so I don’t ever have to leave my seat for food or drinks, and that aids the enjoyment of the music.

To me this club is like a quintessential 1920’s ‘joint’; there is just something about the place that makes we want to be there. It is situated off the Plaza Santa Ana too, which is a great place to eat and drink in Madrid anyway as the night-life is so lively.

A Night-time at Cafe Central when we went to see Lluis Coloma Trio

The Best Place To Clothes Shop:

My favourite place to shop for clothes is the vintage stores of Malasaña. I have written a post about this previously, so if you have read it then you will know how much I enjoy the variety and uniqueness these stores have to offer. If you haven’t then take a look as this will give you more information on vintage shopping in Madrid: The Jewel In The Vintage Crown

I love a good deal and something individual, and here is the only place in Madrid to find such things! They have things you can’t find anywhere else, and I would have been lost without my discovery of them!

What I Have Learnt:

Other than the language, I have learnt a bit about the culture of the people here in Madrid too; some of it good and some of it bad.

Street Etiquette:

Well, if you expect manners don’t be disappointed. People here are all about getting from A to B quickly and are not adverse in pushing you aside to get there that little bit quicker. On the pavements or sidewalks it is every man, woman, child and dog for themselves!

I had the false apprehension that people in Madrid would be ‘old school’ and brim with courtesy and politeness, how wrong I was. Even men will have no qualms on barging me out of their way, which to be honest, for me, says a lot about what type of men they are. Manners are free and I still adhere to them, so what if I am the only one!

Expect to see dogs everywhere. People in Madrid are crazy about pooches; it is dog friendly. They also do ‘their business’ wherever, so watch your step!

Another strange thing is that people may ignore you on the street, but once inside a building, inside an elevator, they expect you do greet them and also say goodbye. So for example ‘Hola, buenos dias’ and ‘Adiós’, also they may chat about the weather or any other small talk.

Shopping:

Whilst not having a car to rely upon I use the Metro or walk to supply myself with food. I was quite aghast that everyone seemed to make use of shopping trolleys’, which at home are considered the realm of the elderly. Anyway, I gave in after a few shop runs made me laden down with heavy bags. I had to invest in something cool to ferry my food about it though, so I opted for a purple trolley that I affectionately named ‘Henry’. He and I are now inseparable.

As there is no large supermarket near to me, I found locating all the foodstuffs I required a little difficult. I usually have to visit a couple of different supermarkets or shops to buy all that I require, plus I don’t find the food here to be cheap. If you want vegetarian or healthy options then you spend far more. That in itself is bad news. Plus the produce doesn’t last as long as it does in the UK. Within a few days I find fresh food is rotting in the fridge and that annoys me.

Health food shops are expensive too!!! I recently bought 100 Cranberry tablets for 18.90 Euros! In the UK you can easily buy them for £8, which is a significant difference.

Also, the Pharmacies in Madrid stock all the medicines, which keep the prices of the goods higher. Paracetamols, antacid, cough medicine and so on can only be purchased via the chemist. This annoys me; I suppose it is the inconvenience of having to shop in so many shops for separate supplies of goods. Too used to Tescos than maybe good for me!

Night-life:

Night-life culture too is a different here. I have mentioned this before in a previous post: The Hunger Trail

People in Madrid eat at different times to most people in the UK and also children aren’t in bed by set times like people may expect them to be. It is not uncommon to see kids out with families eating out at 11:00. In fact on Saturday I saw a baby being pushed around and it was 1:30am. Another thing is that people often just go out and don’t really ‘dress to the nines’, often wearing very casual clothing to be out and about even on Saturday nights.

Demure:

Talking about clothing; I also thought that people in Madrid would be more ‘demure’ in their dress sense, well, the women anyway. I was again wrong. The summer months proved that women here are just as risky in their choice of clothes as they maybe in any other country. It was not uncommon to see a flash of ‘posterior’ on the Metro.

Noise:

Noisy neighbours are also not uncommon in Madrid. I have heard plenty of tales of people complaining about these facts. Many people generally tend not to give their neighbours much consideration. I have already mentioned that the times people are eating reflect the times they actually go to bed, late. It is quite normal for people to be eating at 2:00am and still up and about at 3:00am, but the also go to work in the mornings! Also, living in an apartment tends to be noisy generally, but given the fact that some apartments are situated above shops, bars, cafes and also car garages and workshops, they can be noisy places to live and try to sleep!!

I know it took me a fair few months to become accustomed to hearing other people at all hours of the night and day, I am so used to a house on a quiet street!

Protests:

To witness protests being staged in the city has also become quite the norm. I was surprised at first at how frequent a protest would occur, but also inspired to see how the country reacts against what they believe to be political injustices. Obviously the economic crisis has been given lots of press coverage throughout the world, and so too has the Spanish reaction to it.

Saturday I saw another protest, well, of sorts. My friend told me it was a fascist protest. A certain group here in Madrid still celebrate or honour the life and death of Franco (the Dictator) who died 20th November 1975. I couldn’t quite understand why they would want to remember him fondly.

Holidays:

Religious holidays and public holidays; wow, there has been so many this year! I think I read that Spain is runner-up, only second in the world out of all countries for having the most public holidays per year. Maybe next year they will top the polls!!!

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Gumbo: The Taste Of New Orleans in Madrid


Could a taste of New Orleans be hiding away in a corner of Madrid?

By sheer accident I found a restaurant on Calle Pez called ‘Gumbo’, which claimed to serve New Orleans cuisine or more precisely, Cajun and Creole inspired dishes.

Calle Pez

I was immediately delighted and intrigued!

A) I haven’t found anything like this here in Madrid,

B) After visiting New Orleans and Memphis I have adopted a taste for such food,

C) If I ever owned a restaurant I vowed it would be New Orleans inspired, which would of course include the cuisine of that area.

So, all things considered I naturally jumped at the opportunity to sample what ‘Gumbo’ had to offer!

Firstly we frequented a few bars on Calle Pez, and passing Gumbo on the way we noticed it was quiet, albeit it was 8:30 – 9:00.

9:30, we headed over to Gumbo and although it was very busy by this time, we were seated immediately, which shocked me. I expected to wait another half hour at least.

The restaurant itself, décor and setting, is not overly inspiring, but it is clean and the staff were friendly and welcoming.

I had already perused the menu online, and part of the reason I was so excited to visit the restaurant was the lure of Fried Green Tomatoes, Gumbo and the Lemon Meringue Pie.

The Menu comprised of (all prices in Euros):

Starters –

SEAFOOD GUMBO, typical New Orleans (8.75)

FRIED EGGPLANT (AUBERGINE), bathed in a Swiss and Parmesan Mornay (8.50)

FRESH SPINACH SALAD, shallots, blue cheese, walnuts and balsamic vinaigrette (8.50)

STUFFED MUSSELS, with garlic and breadcrumbs (8.00)

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES, topped with warm shrimp remoulade (8.50)

HOME MADE COUNTRY PATE, accompanied by caramelised onions (8.75)

GOATS CHEESE TOAST, with oyster mushrooms in a port sauce (8.50)

Mains –

BARBECUED SHRIMP, with garlic and spices (15,50)

SHRIMP AND GROUPER CREOLE, sauteed with tomatoes and seasonings (15.50)

SOFT SHELL CRAB, with meuniere sauce and dirty rice, (16.00)

FRIED FREE RANGE POUSSIN, marinated in crystal hot sauce (15.00)

STUFFED PORK CHOP, with caramelized onions and bordelaise sauce (16.00)

BRONZED SIRLOIN STEAK, with garlic mashed potatoes (18.00)

ARTICHOKE AND SPINACH CREPES, with bits of toasted nuts (11:50)

Deserts –

LEMON MERENGUE PIE  (6.00)

BANANAS FOSTER (6.00)

PEANUT BUTTER PIE (6.00)

PECAN PIE (6.00)

RASPBERRY BROWNIE (6.50)

The starters all sounded really tasty, albeit not all 100% authentic New Orleans, but nevertheless all worthy of sampling. The only problem for me was that I wanted the Fried Green Tomatoes, and the Gumbo; yet I had to make a choice! Annoyingly the Gumbo wasn’t available as a Main!!!!

I settled for the tomatoes and my vegetarian amigo ordered the Goats Cheese Toast. I cannot fault the tomatoes. They were superb; I thoroughly enjoyed them and would recommend them to anyone. The coating of the tomatoes although fried remained crisp; seemed to be a good bread-crumb come Polenta coating. The sauce was tangy and similar to a Tartar sauce rather than the Horseradish variety we had in Memphis, yet equally as tasty! The Goats Cheese offering though, was nothing special. In fact combined with the bread the mixture had become a little rubbery, and not pleasant to eat.

Swiftly onto the Mains. I ordered the Creole Shrimp and my amigo ordered the veggie option crepes. I have to say, it was enjoyable, but again for the price I didn’t think it was quite worth it. The shrimp was a decent enough dish, but not spiced or seasoned enough, it lacked that quintessential New Orleans va va voom! The crepes were again, edible, but ordinary! They were hardly an awe inspiring vegetarian choice.

Yet, to be fair this restaurant visit wasn’t strictly chosen because it held vegetarian delights; the reason for going there was to measure up their version of New Orleans against the real deal. So with that criterion in mind for what I alone had ordered, the scores on the doors stood at;

Starter:  10/10

Main: 5/10

So, everything hinged upon the anticipated desert; Lemon Meringue Pie.

*Sigh* Desert let me down! My Lemon Meringue Pie was certainly NOT home-made; it reminded me of the frozen variety that can be purchased cheaply enough from any supermarket. It was lack lustre! The saving grace was the Pecan Pie my friend ordered; it was scrumptious and definitely home-made! The pastry base was just firm enough, breaking neatly under the pressure of the fork; the sweet, sticky syrupy, nut mixture topping was delightful!!! Thank God for Pecan’s!

Scores now stood at –

Starter: 10/10

Main: 5/10

Desert (Meringue): 4/10
Desert (Pecan): 7/10

Anyway, all in all the bill came to roughly 75 Euros.

With all things considered I would say it was a tad expensive for a half measure New Orleans experience. The food could have been better; more authentic, more spice and season added, more vegetarian options, and that frozen pie desert not worthy of gracing a restaurants table (especially when this dining experience is being sold as something different).

The question is would I go again, and the answer is yes I probably would! The reason being is that I loved those Fried Green Tomatoes enough to ignore the other let downs, and go there to try something different on the menu! What a sucker I am!

Gumbo Restaurant, Calle Pez, 15

Tues-Sat: 14:00-16:00 hrs. / 21:00-24:00 hrs.
Sun: 14:00 a 16:00 hrs.
closed Sunday night and all of Monday

Check out Gumbo’s website for further details:
http://www.gumbo.es

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