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I just couldn’t resist posting this for some light hearted humour.
This video is from the BBC classic comedy series ‘Fawlty Towers’. In this little snippet, Basil Fawlty decides to teach Manuel a thing or two about his own language, Spanish, and of course in true classic Basil Fawlty style, he falls short of that task!
Hope you enjoy, and remember, this is NOT how to speak Spanish!!
This Christmas, my boyfriend and I chose to remain in Madrid. We had considered returning to the UK but the prospect of confronting; the packing of many suitcases, the crazy airports and masses of people, delayed flights, bad weather, the hustle and bustle of the usual Christmas shopping frenzy (in ALL stores, but especially supermarkets, where food hoarders fight over the last Turkey!), the lack of personal transport and general malaise of UK Christmas cheer – in short, this bedlam really didn’t hold its usual appeal! So, we decided, sensibly, to stay put and experience a Spanish Christmas.
I admit, I was pleased and relieved to be staying in Madrid for Christmas, so too was my boyfriend. It saved us a lot of angst and hassle, plus, it has been great just having time to ourselves. We don’t seem to have enough quality ‘us’ time, and being here meant not having the usual obligations to please anyone, but ourselves!!! Selfish, it might be, but true!
In all, Christmas here hasn’t been such a culture shock. We have managed to buy the food we needed without hassle, without pushing and shoving and fighting in the aisles for the Brussel Sprouts or pigs in blankets! I did feel slightly peeved; I couldn’t buy any Mince Pies, Cranberry Sauce or my beloved Bread Sauce (the Spanish don’t know quite what they are missing out on!), and my home made gravy lacked its usual pizazz due to me forgetting to buy in extra stock cubes. Yet, regardless of this and the fact Spanish Christmas cakes and sweets just aren’t all that, we managed to survive!!!
We listened to Christmas songs and carols from King’s College Cambridge (the best Christmas carol choir service). We opened our presents, even though the Spanish wait until the Three Kings (6th January). We didn’t have a tree or any decorations, but then I knew we wouldn’t be buying those this year. We celebrated Boxing Day (26th December) by going out for a fabulous dinner and indulging in some lovely cocktails, although the Spanish don’t celebrate Boxing Day.
So, we didn’t miss out on anything really. However, I did think that it would be a quiet Christmas, as it was going to be just the two of us, but I couldn’t have been more wrong!
Nearly every night we have been out and about, far more actually than we would have been in the UK. On our doorstep are cafes, bars, clubs and restaurants. It has been easier to have fun and celebrate the holidays just because we are in the heart of the city. We can, on a whim, just go where we want, when we want and don’t need to rely on anyone else or fit into anyone else’s schedule. It has been great!
Don’t get me wrong, I love my family and friends to bits!! I also enjoy spending time with them, and miss them dearly!!! Yet, Christmas in the UK can sometimes become, well, a little bit claustrophobic. Let me explain; I think people get stuck in a Christmas rut, a routine whereby every Christmas ends up becoming the same, without any real changes. Most importantly, the fun factor is often left out of the equation for one reason or another. This Christmas though, hasn’t been in anyway ‘rutified’ (Definition: to be put into the mould of a rut – I know it isn’t a genuine word!).
This Christmas has been a change of scene, it has been something different, we have come and gone as we pleased and we’ve had fun. This is why for me, in many ways, this Christmas has been one of the best. I always wanted to go away for Christmas, but hadn’t felt I could before, because of not wanting to upset my family and make them think I didn’t want to be with them. It is considered to be somewhat selfish, doing your own thing at Christmas; it is after all fundamentally about being with family and friends.
Yet, by living in Madrid we had a legitimate reason for not being there with them at Christmas time, even though for the previous two Christmases we returned to the UK to be with them. This time, we wanted a change though, we wanted to make the most being in Madrid. We haven’t got that long a time remaining here, this time next year we will in fact have already moved back to the UK. So, understandably we wanted to maximise every opportunity that being here affords us, which includes, a Spanish Christmas.
Hopefully then, we haven’t been deemed too selfish, as I do know our family and friends have enjoyed their Christmases too (even without us there with them)!
So, now Christmas time is over (very nearly over), I have, as most people do, been remembering all that has happened in 2013. More specifically, the life I have lived here in Madrid during this time. Although being out here for these few years hasn’t been all plain sailing, I feel that this year has been a year for positive changes. I feel quite good about things. I am also feeling quite saddened by the prospect of not being here in Madrid for next Christmas. It does seem as though this chapter of my life will soon enough come to an abrupt close, and without any fanfare I will be back where I was, as though these few years in Madrid never happened. How weird!
So, for my boyfriend and I it is even more important than ever before to enjoy the time we have left living in Spain!!! This Christmas sort of encapsulates that momentum we feel, the fact that we want to have fun and experience life to the fullest without feeling bad about about doing so!!
Anyway, before I become maudlin, and I don’t even have New Years Eve as an excuse, let me say I have thoroughly enjoyed the ups and downs of my time in Madrid (and hopefully will enjoy the year to come)! When the time comes and we depart for the UK, I can take back with me a whole new perspective and life experiences. As someone, at sometime once said; “nothing good can last forever”; maybe not, but I can of course treasure the memories forever!
So, here’s to a fabulous New Year – for me, you and everyone out there in the world!!!
I shall be celebrating my New Years Eve in Puerta del Sol, drinking some alcohol and some eating grapes (not as strange as it might sound – it is a Spanish tradition to eat grapes as the clock strikes to signal the new year).
Where-ever YOU are and what-ever YOU do, have fun and enjoy every last minute of 2013!!!!!!
What bugs me most, well, OK this particular thing is not THE most annoying thing in the whole world, but it is on my ’10 things I hate’ list. Don’t believe me, well, check it out; 10 Things I Hate.
So, what is this annoying ‘little’ oversight, well, a lack of MANNERS of course!!!!!!!!
Living in a city is never going to be picture book perfection, I’m not crazy enough to think it is. Not everyone will always don smiles from ear to ear or be pleasant and happy. Nor will they dance and swirl around as though they are part of the cast of some lavish musical. Yet, I didn’t realise that SO MANY people could leave their homes every morning, and FORGET that one essential thing that makes this world that more sweeter and bearable; their manners.
Who brought them up exactly, parents or vultures?
What effort or time does it t of to express gratitude with ‘thank you’, ‘sorry’, ‘excuse me’ – ermmm, NONE! Well, not for me anyway, it is automatic because I am not an inconsiderate, selfish oaf.
Everyday on the streets and Metro, in the stores and museums of Madrid there are idiots. These idiots blatantly go out of their way to annoy, to cause disruption and general angst – basically these idiots are pushing their luck! I have often wondered when, or indeed IF, someone will one day just snap, and slap them!!
To be honest – it sometimes begins to feel like a battle, a free for all, a power struggle, a dominance thing. Call me paranoid, but it is almost as though these people are trying to root out those who are weaker, those whose nerve will cave in quicker, those who are foolish enough do adhere to manners and good conduct. They, these aggressive and arrogant morons, can then laugh at such weak considerate and mannerly people, as they mow us down on the street with their heels, handbags, elbows, dogs, pushchairs and God knows what else!!!
Honestly, good manners and consideration must be a rare thing here in Madrid now, a thing which will very soon be extinct.
People push and shove; they barge right into me, physically knocking me out of their way. They think nothing of cutting me up on the walkways, so I nearly trip up. They hog all the walkway too, and often walk as slowly as snails because they act as though THEY own that piece of ground, and I am an intruder. These idiots just keep walking, and I mean walking at me and into me, just like they intend to mow me over (which they do). They expect me, to give way to them, to jump up out of their way like a fricken acrobat; just so they and their lazy butts can get past without disruption or inconvenience. What, so two steps to either the left or right of me on a walkway is such a inconvenience??? MENTAL!!!! Good God, there is plenty of room for EVERYONE to walk, yet these fools won’t give way, WHY???!!!! WTF???!!! They would prefer to see me lying on the floor with their footmarks all over my crumpled and bruised body – seriously, they need their heads reading!
People also are not adverse to sitting, standing or talking too close to my personal space (again, when there is NO need as there is plenty of room for us all to be in one place without sitting on each other)!!! Men will take the last seat on the Metro train while a woman stands up with shopping. Children bump into me, and play about without a care of whose foot they are trampling all over. Their parents, well, absent, and engaged in loud conversation about nonsense – too busy to tell their offspring ‘STOP IT’!!! People stare, really stare, the daggers are out type of stares! Honestly, I can be travelling on the Metro, minding my own business, and for the entire journey I can be stared at. These people thing nothing of wasting their time looking me up and down and up and down, as though I am some freak of nature. It is like I’m dressed in my underwear only, which is something I never do, and yet those who do dress like that NEVER get stared at. WHY?!!!!!
I am becoming a little more ARGHHH everyday – and I think, I shall be the one to slap the next person guilty of these crimes of ill mannerly foolishness.
So, take heed people of Madrid and BEWARE!!
I found a great little job site for applying for work here in Madrid, yet, the application process SUCKS!!!
I can’t upload my own CV, which far surpasses the useless and limited electronic version the site has for every candidate to use. It is OK if every candidate is Spanish, but I am not, and the jobs being advertised on the site aren’t all for Spanish speakers or Spanish companies!!!
The CV on the site didn’t even have the ‘pull down’ option on there for MY degree, what the Hell!!! It couldn’t get my age correct either!! It also required either NIE (certificate of residency) or passport number – which is highly confidential information to part with, and leave lying around on an online job site, which could be hacked any time, and my complete identity then stolen!! In the UK such personal identification would NEVER be required until the interview stage or, until an actual job offer has been made.
The site also required me to input a Spanish telephone number, which I haven’t got. I don’t want one either!!!! I didn’t see the need to transfer my contract over to a Spanish contract, especially as mobile contracts are expensive here. I use texts more than calls, here, Spanish people use calls more than texts – who the Hell am I gonna call and chat to?? I don’t have an endless contact list!!!
The other down side – everything on the site’s CV was in Spanish. Yet, the jobs I wanted to apply for are not advertised in Spanish, are not for Spanish speakers, but Native English speakers. Therefore, as a non-fluent Spanish speaker – the whole site was a tad frustrating to navigate – and most of it wasn’t applicable to me!!!!
It was a classic catch 22. I need to be in a Spanish working environment to learn more Spanish, and yet getting a job to help me do that – is a nightmare! So, I rely on applying for English speaking only positions to help me get somewhere; but this is no better, as the application process is in Spanish!
Barriers, and then some!!!!!
The etiquette for interviews, and for meting people in a business capacity is completely wrong too! There is no follow up, the only option is; come at this time, this date, to this venue – there is NO, can you make this? Is this OK for you? Let us confirm this 100%. There is NO response to confirm or responses to answer questions – its just – this, that and nothing more. If that is no good for you, well, tough – and DON’T contact us again! How is that conducive for business or organisations to run?? Why can’t they clarify what is required?? Why can’t they communicate and decide what is best for all parties concerned?? How does anything ever get done if there is no negotiation and communication, just orders?!
As a candidate or enquirer about volunteering, info on jobs, organising meetings and so on, you have to do all the chasing too. Without two way communication you are often left hanging with no real answers, clarification or a way to progress. Basically, it is a one time only offer; unless you comply to what they want, when they want it and how they want it, you as a candidate or enquirer are up the creak without a paddle.
No wonder so many people here in Spain are unemployed!!!!!!!
I am at least, seemingly, making headway with volunteering. I am trying once more to arrange a meeting to discuss what I can do, and they can do – and so on and so on. Fingers crossed this will all be done and dusted by next week!!!!! Fingers crossed!!!!
I was simply outraged when my boyfriend related to me how one of his Spanish colleagues had suggested that he ought to ‘trade me in’ for a Spanish girlfriend or bed partner!!
What am I exactly?? A possession, a piece of meat??
What is the reasoning for this colleague even suggesting such a thing; well, apparently my boyfriend would learn Spanish much better without me in tow!!
Oh, it was meant as a ‘joke’ – hahahaha – can you all hear me laughing?!
I don’t find it funny, not one iota. Not for me as I am the brunt of the said joke, the object of jest.
It makes the situation more precarious, as currently we are not in the same country as one another. I am in the UK (STILL), and my boyfriend is in Madrid. So, even knowing that someone would say something so off the cuff about me, and our relationship, to my boyfriend of umpteen years, hurts me.
They don’t know me – they have never met me or even spoken to me. They know nothing of substance about my boyfriend really, or about our relationship and all the time we have been together through thick and thin.
This to me speaks volumes for the person who made that comment or suggestion. It is callous and superficial.
‘Oh she no longer suits your purpose as she isn’t Spanish, so as you can’t get what you want from her any longer, dump her and get someone else who you can use for your current needs‘.
Why is it these ‘men’ think women are disposable objects?? Why is it that I can’t trip the light fandango with a Spanish man, why is it always assumed the bloke will do a runner???
I know my fella doesn’t want to do a runner, if he did, well, he would, same for me too. I trust him and he trusts me – so my fury lies with the colleague and not my fella.
Would this colleague decide to do something as nasty and calculating to his own partner or wife? Perhaps so. Throw over someone he had spent a lifetime with to fulfill his own selfish ends, yes, and that is what we call love folks – errrr, NOT!!!
As for me not being good enough, well, I’m not the one suggesting someone has an affair or breaks another persons heart just for the sheer fun of it. What a plonker!
Yesterday or more precisely, last night, I attended another one of those English and Spanish language exchanges. Here in Madrid they are called; ‘Intercambios’.
Last night was OK, I seem to be settling into the routine and environment of the particular Intercambio I attend. I have made a few friends actually, but the reason I initially began attending Intercambios wasn’t really to make friends.
The idea behind these language exchanges are that people who wish to learn English or Spanish can meet at these organised events, and then together they can work to improve their language skills.
In Madrid Intercambios are popular. For me it has been a huge shock discovering just how popular. Many people here are eager to perfect their English – which they will tell you is bad, and yet it isn’t! They speak very good English, which again shocked me, as you rarely hear them doing so, even if you ask them.
People here actually learn English via work or from school, well, the younger generations learn in school. Courses and classes here can be expensive, so people flood to these Intercambios hoping to practice and speak English for free. So, I held out hope to also be able to chat away in my ‘Spanglish’, or gain the much needed confidence to actually speak Spanish as well as I do when no-one is listening to me!!
Having spent a significant time dedicated to attempting to learn Spanish, and also time slacking off from this task; I came to think, in my infinite wisdom, that Intercambio (language exchange) evenings would be the way to achieve language perfection.
Oh dear, how misled were my judgements on such things.
The main issue for me is that Intercambios are 99.9% of the time run from a bar/club, where loud music can hinder understanding, and also people tend to enjoy drinking alcohol, more than perhaps actually learning anything. I for one am guilty of this!
OK, alcohol plays a huge part in lowering inhibitions and boosting confidence, but also after a couple of drinks retaining any new information, in relation to learning, well, it isn’t so conducive.
Have I learnt anything so far from attending them?? Well a couple of words, but not substantial conversation or fantastical language confidence!
In fact even finding an Intercambio set up I was comfortable with at first, was trial and error.
My first experience with Intercambios was actually as I expected it would be, surprisingly. Bar, alcohol,
men and women = well, a hunting ground for sex. Not really my idea of learning a language!
This first Intercambio, 3 friends and myself attended together. As soon as us women entered the bar (which was full of men), immediately I detected their eyes fix upon us, and I just knew why! Their necks were all strained like Meerkats on the lookout!! They weren’t interested in run of the mill conversation, let me just say that!
Anyway, intimidating, yes, very; we were not there to meet men for sex.
So, my judgement of Intercambios had been tainted; I felt it was really a euphemism for a ‘pick up’ opportunity, rather than a legitimate language exchange or learning experience.
Anyway, not being one to give up, I decided to persevere and give the Intercambios another shot.
The second Intercambio I attended, although the setting remained within a bar, I didn’t get a ‘pick up’ joint vibe. So, it seemed as though this one might just provide me an opportunity to learn, and practice Spanish.
This was the theory, but it has never quite transpired to practice.
Reason being is when a friend and I checked into this particular Intercambio, we looked at the attendee register, and immediately noticed everyone there was Spanish. 98% of them wanted to learn English!!!! Us two, being the only fluent English speakers present – damn!
Seems as though we would be the free English tutors for the evening – and that thought unnerved me.
As soon as the people present heard our accents, all eyes were trained upon us! They turned eagerly, desperate to get the opportunity to talk to us about anything, so long as they could speak to us in English. It was once again an intimidating situation, but for very different reasons than the first Intercambio disaster. We were again centre of attention without even wanting to be! I then thought, thank God I have never been famous, I’d never have coped with all that attention!
I was a little freaked out to say the least; put on the spot and I almost felt like a cabaret act – like I should do a little dance or something! I felt myself squirm inwardly as we were paraded about the bar, and then introduced to about 10 strangers. We were expected then to get on with our tuition of these Spanish strangers! It was weird!
Consequently I could only speak in English for the first hour, and then only a little Spanish thereafter. I was on edge all night – I felt so nervous of all the attention and questioning. Though, they were nice people, it was still a full on experience and not one I am usually used to; speaking on demand like a pet! I wasn’t a happy bunny!
This way of learning is not for me, I cannot learn like this. I need to feel comfortable to speak to a person in a foreign language – I don’t know why. I struggle, I feel my mind goes blank. Plus, how often do we trade information, that is perhaps personal, with complete strangers? Not often. It is quite an unnatural setting.
A Spanish friend of mine actually described the Intercambios as a form of speed dating, and they could be. It is like repeating yourself, and making good impressions, being on your best behaviour, and hiding your true self to score points! I have never been part of a speed dating event, but I imagine people must feel the same – on show, on the spot and feel they are being assessed and judged even!
It is a weird environment for sure, and one I just feel I am not comfortable in, yet every week I still attend, like a glutton for punishment! As I have already stated though I have met some nice people, so this is a good thing, yet, I am not really fulfilling my main aim – to learn Spanish!
Yet, at least I am making friends. So, there is still hope to eventually be fluent in Spanish, one day!
Well, as it is coming up to my one year anniversary in the capital of Spain I thought I’d do a sort of recap of my time here that would also include some of the things I have learnt and my favourite places.
I am certain I have previously mentioned that I had visited Madrid about 3 times previous to officially moving here, so it was somewhat familiar to me. Yet, until you live in a place you never really know it, but upon writing that I know that I don’t know everything there is know about Madrid still!!! Life to me is a constant learning curve, so I always enjoy discovering something new, whether that is a word, a place or a shop!
I can say being here has been the best experience. I feel privileged that I have been provided with this ‘path’ to take in my life, as it was sorely needed. Somewhere someone had to be looking out for me, and I strongly believe that!
Concise Recap Of A Year:
I have learnt a language, and am still learning it. I have become familiar with a great city and feel at home here. I have met lots of people and made friends (I have 3 really good friends here, and in a city I think that is good going). I have a really good social life, and access to so many varied avenues of entertainment; even watching plays and musicals in Spanish has been great (though at first I doubted it could be)! I have been to so many places since moving here; the first 6 months was hectic!!! I have ticked off some of my ‘to do’s’ on my ‘bucket list’ and have more to also look forward to experiencing, such as a trip to Rome in December!!!!!! So excited about that!!!!
The advertisement for Grease, we went to see it in the summer at a theatre on Gran Via.
I have written about initial experiences in this post. You can read it to get more of a background of Madrid as a city:The Real Madrid Experience
A Change Of Scene:
I have even experienced the health care here. I don’t know whether I have written about my one and only (crossed fingers and hope I need never go again), hospital visit?? Again, I was lucky to have two Doctors and a nurse who spoke and understood English! I can’t fault the health care I had; it was as good as it gets when you’re ill and in need.
On Friday, I also finally managed to officially register to receive health care here!! A big YIPPEEE!!! It has been a long time in the waiting (a year nearly). From this I will then be able to have a Doctor at one of the Medical Centres here, and a Dentist. This does concern me though please me simultaneously; as there is no way my Spanish is ready to be tested to the extent of medical terminology! Another hurdle I may one day need to cross or hopefully not!
All in all I reflect back upon this year and feel proud of my achievements. Just being here is quite crazy! Since I was a little girl I hoped to be able to move away from the UK, but as I finished University and then began pursuing my career I doubted it would happen. Yet, 2011 was when the final change required occurred; for about 2 years previous I felt there would be a massive change, though I didn’t know what form that change would adopt. After a long time feeling as though my life was plunging into an abyss (dramatic but true), I am finally in the light again. I cannot be thankful enough for this opportunity and change.
I feel being in Madrid has made a positive impact and me and my life. I was taken from a bad setting where I felt there was nothing left, to something where there is always more.
Places I Love To Be:
OK, so Madrid has so much to offer and it isn’t always the hustle and bustle of city life that makes me love living here. I have read some reviews from tourists who criticise Madrid for not being very pretty, but I want to say that if they believe that is the case then they weren’t looking at the city properly, and didn’t get to know it well enough to comment!
So, I want to share some of my favourite places to be and to go to in the city, and the reasons why of course! These are the places that make this city great to me!
The Best View:
Best view of the city for me has to be the vista from the top of the Cathedral De Santa Maria La Real De La Almudena. This Cathedral adjoins the courtyard of the Palacio Real de Madrid, which is a stunning part of Madrid anyway! I remember visiting the Cathedral one morning and being the only person standing up there, accompanied only by the statues of the Saints. My stone companions and I were gazing out over the vast city beyond, and it was quite magical to be honest. In that moment it was the most tranquil setting, which induced the same effect onto me too. The view of the city and surrounding areas is fabulous, and cannot really be rivalled in my opinion mainly because of that perfect setting.
Part of the view from the Cathedral
The Best Architecture:
I’m not a religious person, but the many churches of Madrid are architecturally beautiful and I would urge anyone to pay them a visit. The internal décor too is something quite exquisite, and there is always something about a church that instils awe within me. If there is a service being held too, this is the perfect time to go in and feel the atmosphere. In every city I have ever visited I always go to one of their churches, they are after all a significant part of any countries history. The Cathedral De Santa Maria is beautiful, but there are others also that I love; San Manuel y San Benito near Parque del Retiro, Monasterio De La Encarnacion near Opera, and San Jeronimo El real opposite Museo del Prado.
San Manuel y San Benito
The Best Open Space:
The best open space in Madrid has to be Parque del Retiro. Maybe I am biased as I live very near to it! What I was surprised at when I first visited was that there was a map giving directions, I didn’t realise how vast the place was! It is made up of walk ways, or avenues which are individually named. This park used to be part of the grounds of the original royal palace, and the grandness still lingers on.
Why I love Retiro Park so much is that there you can cycle, skate, skateboard, jog, run and even dance! It makes no difference whether it is dark or light! They also hold yoga, dance, jogging and skating classes, which you can join if you feel like having some company!
It is possible to hire a bike for next to nothing and just spend the day in the park, which we have done and I thoroughly enjoyed it as it added an extra dimension of exploration and I just felt somehow freer! There is also an outdoor gym, which is the best place in Madrid to see ‘Tableta de Chocolate’ or six packs!!! My British friends fell in love with this place in the summer! Ladies be warned!
There is a boating lake, and I have become quite proficient in rowing! I love it, in the summer it is wonderful, and it is great fun. I also love the huge monuments and colonnade to one side of the lake. It is a great place to sit and relax, read, write or even cycle through!
The Colonnade at Retiro Boating Lake
Also in the park there are many ‘wild’ domesticated cats that roam around with the cutest kittens ever! The park is also home to the red Squirrels, and they are not shy, in fact they are quite happy to pose for pictures. This summer we also saw a beautiful black swan, and I don’t think I have ever seen one before.
There is a smaller lake too where the Palacio de Cristal is situated. A lovely building to look at, in houses exhibitions too, but they aren’t worth the visit, yet the building makes up for any disappointment.
There are places to eat, drink and chill out within the park. We usually take a picnic and just sit at the many benches or on the grass areas. Local people also have parties and BBQ’s in the grounds, which is my plan for next summer!
There are also buskers, performance acts, art and photographic exhibitions, markets and anything in between! The park is a hive of activity and a community all on its own. I love being there!
A Statue To Just Admire:
This brings me to my favourite statue in Madrid. El Angel Caído, or The Fallen Angel. Now I’m not going into too much detail about this yet, as I want to do a separate post dedicated to this statue. All I will say is my first visit to the park was a ‘pilgrimage’ to see this very statue for myself, as I love all things strange and spooky!
Down At The River:
Another great outdoor space which I enjoy cycling in is the Madrid Rio. It is a 10k stretch of park that runs alongside the Manzanares River and offers lots of recreational activities such as; tennis, rock climbing, a skate park and so on. I hire my bike from a rental store just off the River side, it is quite cheap too. People don’t just come here to be active though, in the summer months they also sunbathe close to the River, and they cool down by going into the many water fountains. It is known as ‘the Madrid beach’ because of this! It’s busy in the summer and for me not quite as charming as Retiro Park, but it has some places great little places of interest such as; Puente del Rey Bridge, Virgen del Puerto Chapel, Puente de Segovia bridge and Puente de Toledo Bridge, and the view of the Royal Palace is lovely.
View of Madrid ‘Rio’
The Most Novel Experience:
Another activity I think is a little novel for Madrid is the Teleferico, which are cable cars that run from Templo de Debod to Casa de Campo. They are an alternative, but more expensive travel option to the Campo area, but I used them just so I could again see Madrid from another perspective! The views are great, but to me it was more the oddity of being suspended in the air and travelling over Madrid that I enjoyed the most. Funnily enough it is quite tranquil too, although if you weren’t keen on heights you wouldn’t think so!
A hazy view of the Royal Palace taken from inside the cable cars.
The Coolest Little Café:
The coolest décor of any restaurant / café has to be Le Jardin Secreto on Calle de San Bernardino. This is why I love the place as it is just what is says it is, the secret garden, or an Alice in Wonderland experience. I love it there; it is quite magical and almost, romantic? I know it is an odd description to attach to a restaurant, but I just like how the place makes me feel. Even the tea things are mismatched and something fit for the Mad Hatter’s tea party, it is all a little bit fairytale!
They also offer a fabulous and wide list of drinks; over 25 varieties of hot chocolate, coffees, teas, cocktails alcoholic or not, wines, spirits and beers. Also they have deserts and cooked food. It is a small place though, but that doesn’t bother me so much as the interior has me hooked! It does become busy, very busy. We were last seated in one of the window nooks, and it was like being in our own little secret garden! I ordered a non-alcoholic cocktail made up with ice cream; delicious!
I would suggest arriving there early though, for 6:00, and if you do ever visit there and think a weekend would be a good idea, again get there early or make a reservation!
El Jardin Secreto; looks far more magical at night though!
My Favourite Cocktail:
The strangest cocktail I have tasted, and therefore it has to be my favourite is Leche de Pantera at the club of the same name in Moncloa. It is expensive cocktail, but it is roughly half a litre of alcohol, which is the oddest shade of green I have ever seen! Can’t describe the taste really, it is an odd mix of cinnamon and eggnog??
The Place To Find Anything:
The coolest shop I have found where it is possible to buy almost anything is Tiger. The one on Calle de Fuencarral near Bilboa Metro Station is my favourite because it is spread over two levels, yeh, more things to see and buy!
For those of you who don’t know this chain of shops they sell goods cheaply. Anything from art canvasses, paints, paint brushes, hair accessories, household goods, foods, wool, hats, glasses, candles; as I said anything really! I enjoy just browsing to see what items they have, but I can never leave there without buying something! This was the first place in Madrid I found dried chillies!
The Must See Market:
The best market in Madrid, well, it has to be Mercado San Miguel near Plaza Mayor. Although I have written a post which stated that this market it is on the tourist trail Foodie Heaven it is a must see whilst in Madrid, and is a thoroughly enjoyable place to be to feel the city’s true vibe. What I love about this place is the atmosphere, which cannot be rivalled as it is simply crazy!
I love browsing the stalls, sampling the food and having a drink. I just like to be there, even for 30 minutes or so to absorb the scene. It is busy, crazy, manic, and somewhat expensive and you’ll be lucky to ever get a seat to relax in, but it is worth spending some time and money just to be there. I usually get a little fidgety and begin feeling claustrophobic after the 30 minutes is up, as it is so packed in there, yet, you will never get bored!
My Favourite Stations:
My favourite metro station in Madrid is Goya, I love looking at every framed drawing of the said artist upon the walls. Doesn’t matter how many times I have been there, I still look at the drawings and think cool. Yet, Atocha train Station is my other favourite as it houses a whole garden, with trees and water features neatly installed. They even have live turtles and terrapins. It’s not like any train station I have ever visited before, so strangely subterranean!
The Best Museum:
My favourite museum to visit in the city is the Museo Romántico on Calle San Mateo. This is the closet thing I have found to the stately homes, manor houses and castles of the UK. I love it there, and am quite happy spending a few hours wandering about the rooms, lost in my own mind imagining what life would have been like living there in the 18th century.
This museum is dedicated to displaying a complete environment of how life was for the family who owned the house. The art is not static, like in any other museum in Madrid, but part and parcel of how the house would no doubt have looked during the time it was occupied. As I said it is like a stately home of the UK, but on a smaller scale. This is why I like it so much as the objects have a place, are in their proper context. It is interesting to see it and better than any modern art installation.
Inside The Romantic Museum
My Favourite Club:
My favourite club to visit at the weekends has to be Café Central. The atmosphere is so cool and relaxed and the live music is great. It doesn’t matter to me who are playing as they never disappoint. I get there 9:00 to ensure I get a seat! I like to be near the band, so early is good for me, as I don’t want to be standing up all night! The service here is great too, so I don’t ever have to leave my seat for food or drinks, and that aids the enjoyment of the music.
To me this club is like a quintessential 1920’s ‘joint’; there is just something about the place that makes we want to be there. It is situated off the Plaza Santa Ana too, which is a great place to eat and drink in Madrid anyway as the night-life is so lively.
A Night-time at Cafe Central when we went to see Lluis Coloma Trio
The Best Place To Clothes Shop:
My favourite place to shop for clothes is the vintage stores of Malasaña. I have written a post about this previously, so if you have read it then you will know how much I enjoy the variety and uniqueness these stores have to offer. If you haven’t then take a look as this will give you more information on vintage shopping in Madrid: The Jewel In The Vintage Crown
I love a good deal and something individual, and here is the only place in Madrid to find such things! They have things you can’t find anywhere else, and I would have been lost without my discovery of them!
What I Have Learnt:
Other than the language, I have learnt a bit about the culture of the people here in Madrid too; some of it good and some of it bad.
Street Etiquette:
Well, if you expect manners don’t be disappointed. People here are all about getting from A to B quickly and are not adverse in pushing you aside to get there that little bit quicker. On the pavements or sidewalks it is every man, woman, child and dog for themselves!
I had the false apprehension that people in Madrid would be ‘old school’ and brim with courtesy and politeness, how wrong I was. Even men will have no qualms on barging me out of their way, which to be honest, for me, says a lot about what type of men they are. Manners are free and I still adhere to them, so what if I am the only one!
Expect to see dogs everywhere. People in Madrid are crazy about pooches; it is dog friendly. They also do ‘their business’ wherever, so watch your step!
Another strange thing is that people may ignore you on the street, but once inside a building, inside an elevator, they expect you do greet them and also say goodbye. So for example ‘Hola, buenos dias’ and ‘Adiós’, also they may chat about the weather or any other small talk.
Shopping:
Whilst not having a car to rely upon I use the Metro or walk to supply myself with food. I was quite aghast that everyone seemed to make use of shopping trolleys’, which at home are considered the realm of the elderly. Anyway, I gave in after a few shop runs made me laden down with heavy bags. I had to invest in something cool to ferry my food about it though, so I opted for a purple trolley that I affectionately named ‘Henry’. He and I are now inseparable.
As there is no large supermarket near to me, I found locating all the foodstuffs I required a little difficult. I usually have to visit a couple of different supermarkets or shops to buy all that I require, plus I don’t find the food here to be cheap. If you want vegetarian or healthy options then you spend far more. That in itself is bad news. Plus the produce doesn’t last as long as it does in the UK. Within a few days I find fresh food is rotting in the fridge and that annoys me.
Health food shops are expensive too!!! I recently bought 100 Cranberry tablets for 18.90 Euros! In the UK you can easily buy them for £8, which is a significant difference.
Also, the Pharmacies in Madrid stock all the medicines, which keep the prices of the goods higher. Paracetamols, antacid, cough medicine and so on can only be purchased via the chemist. This annoys me; I suppose it is the inconvenience of having to shop in so many shops for separate supplies of goods. Too used to Tescos than maybe good for me!
Night-life:
Night-life culture too is a different here. I have mentioned this before in a previous post: The Hunger Trail
People in Madrid eat at different times to most people in the UK and also children aren’t in bed by set times like people may expect them to be. It is not uncommon to see kids out with families eating out at 11:00. In fact on Saturday I saw a baby being pushed around and it was 1:30am. Another thing is that people often just go out and don’t really ‘dress to the nines’, often wearing very casual clothing to be out and about even on Saturday nights.
Demure:
Talking about clothing; I also thought that people in Madrid would be more ‘demure’ in their dress sense, well, the women anyway. I was again wrong. The summer months proved that women here are just as risky in their choice of clothes as they maybe in any other country. It was not uncommon to see a flash of ‘posterior’ on the Metro.
Noise:
Noisy neighbours are also not uncommon in Madrid. I have heard plenty of tales of people complaining about these facts. Many people generally tend not to give their neighbours much consideration. I have already mentioned that the times people are eating reflect the times they actually go to bed, late. It is quite normal for people to be eating at 2:00am and still up and about at 3:00am, but the also go to work in the mornings! Also, living in an apartment tends to be noisy generally, but given the fact that some apartments are situated above shops, bars, cafes and also car garages and workshops, they can be noisy places to live and try to sleep!!
I know it took me a fair few months to become accustomed to hearing other people at all hours of the night and day, I am so used to a house on a quiet street!
Protests:
To witness protests being staged in the city has also become quite the norm. I was surprised at first at how frequent a protest would occur, but also inspired to see how the country reacts against what they believe to be political injustices. Obviously the economic crisis has been given lots of press coverage throughout the world, and so too has the Spanish reaction to it.
Saturday I saw another protest, well, of sorts. My friend told me it was a fascist protest. A certain group here in Madrid still celebrate or honour the life and death of Franco (the Dictator) who died 20th November 1975. I couldn’t quite understand why they would want to remember him fondly.
Holidays:
Religious holidays and public holidays; wow, there has been so many this year! I think I read that Spain is runner-up, only second in the world out of all countries for having the most public holidays per year. Maybe next year they will top the polls!!!
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Brain Plasticity – looks as complex as it sounds?
Well, last week I had my first official Intercambio meeting (Spanish and English language exchange), via a college here in Madrid. I have written about learning Spanish in a previous post, and the trials and tribulations of becoming accustomed to a new language and life setting. It is not as though I don’t use what Spanish I have learnt, or practice with others, but this Intercambio meeting was the first step in officially ratifying and testing my learning.
Needless to say I felt very nervous. One reason was the fact I didn’t know who I would be meeting with, and I couldn’t be certain whether we would have any common ground to even begin a conversation with. Secondly I really pinned my hopes on using this meeting as a vehicle to gain acquaintance with new people, and to continue to expand my networks; hence I really wanted the initial meeting to go well. Thirdly I was aware I was succumbing to my inner disappointments, because of my lack of Spanish language skills. I therefore felt I was going to be somehow inferior to everyone else present. I have this belief that everyone I meet has mastered a second or third language far better than I ever will; not a conducive thought for the learning processes to take hold (I know).
Anyway, I was eagerly punctual, as always and begun chatting to one of the staff at the college who is Romanian. He was trying to reassure me that it does take time to learn any language well enough to speak confidently, while proceeding to provide me with the same advice I usually receive; go out more and interact and listen to the language being spoken, watch television and listen to the radio. Basically submerse myself in the language on a daily basis.
Of course I agree with this, but again I seem to struggle, though admittedly I am not submerging myself enough.
However, I have reached a point where I am considering my brain’s capacity to actually learn a new language. Is it physically possible for me to learn a new language, have I the specific abilities required in this type of learning or is it merely my self doubt hindering my abilities because I insist on being under confident?
Learning is a complex, but it often happens without conscious recognition; it is something we do everyday without thought. I wondered how it was possible to even begin learning anything, how is learning made easy or completed by the brain. Well, after studying Psychology I know the scientific facts of how the brain absorbs and retains information; written, spoken, memories and actions. I have learnt about Neurons, Neural pathways and Synapses. Yet, how does what we learn, see or do actual stick; what acts do we complete whilst learning something to make the physical processes in the brain kick in?
I considered the theory of ‘brain plasticity’, I wondered if it were applicable. Put simply this theory states; plasticity is something that occurs when we engage in new learning and experience, the brain begins to establish neural pathways to compensate. Neural pathways or circuits are routes made of inter-communicating neurons. These routes are created in the brain through learning and practice; like retreading a path. Visual and auditory cortex’s can be involved in the process, as well as muscle memory. The more you revisit the new experience or learning activity, the stronger the connections become, the more efficient they are made and the faster cognition will become.
Sounds simple enough right?! Well, I now have begun to wonder if my brain has lost out on this plasticity malarkey. Just how much brain plasticity I have in reference to being able to learn new language skills?
Now I haven’t completed a scientific test, but surely not all people are able to learn and perfect everything? The scientific theory seems to make it all sound so easy; the old adage of practice makes perfect resonates throughout it. Yet, what if the practice itself is difficult? What if you prefer something more than the other, won’t that effect what and how you learn? How is it that I can read or watch something I find interesting in English, and retain the information immediately, and in Spanish I feel as though my brain resists the information and learning process?
Are some areas of learning or things to be learnt, just out of bounds for some people? I mean not everyone can dance, play guitar, recall their maths times tables; so cannot that be true of language?
I feel there is always a piece of the learning process missing when it comes to practising Spanish. I know practice and effort are the key, but also self belief, confidence and understanding what we are learning have importance too. Maybe they hold more importance than the actual effort and practice. From experience repetition and effort doesn’t always succeed in making learning kick in and stick. Or could it be that once you get past your teens learning becomes more difficult; because finding the time and head space to fully dedicate yourself, and concentrate completely on learning something new becomes more scarce?
Anyway, I intend to put the theories to the test, on myself in any-case. I have the opportunity to do so as the Intercambio meeting went well, and I will be meeting with a couple of people on a regular basis to practice Spanish. Hopefully I can then shock my brain into action or reaction! I don’t really want to seriously consider the fact that my brain might not have the capacity to learn a new language; that thought doesn’t appeal to me. I feel there has to be a way! I will therefore use all the learning techniques available to encourage plasticity. After all, I am Mistress over my own brain, or am I?
Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
I have been thinking about living in Madrid, about learning the Spanish language and communication skills; how not being able to fully express myself in Spanish is often frustrating, and how I am reacting to having the comfort blanket of my native language taken away from me.
I recently read a blog by latinaish, the post was called ‘hablar o No hablar?’ I could identify with some of the points she raised. I felt inspired to offer a little bit of my own experience in learning a new language, and then trying to practice and use what I have learnt.
The people I have come into contact with in Madrid either speak no English, or have some command of the language. The younger generations have learnt English in school, but even they are quite self-conscious, under confident, shy or under practiced to use the English language. It is one thing to hear it spoken on a television programme or in a class room, and then to use it for real in a situation that isn’t scripted. I feel the same about Spanish; from the moment I begun learning the language I felt I ought to be immediately 100% proficient, and believed that in only a couple of months I would be reading Shakespeare in Spanish and debating politics! I was setting myself up for failure though, over pressuring myself to be word perfect on a two hour a week lesson!
I think I under estimated how important it is to be heard, to be understood and to interact. It is something I took for granted being an English speaker in the UK. It is an important part of our every-day, yet it is something we just do and think little of. I have never been the type of person to remain quiet in social situations, my life and work has always dictated otherwise. Yet, here in Madrid I find myself on the verge of becoming someone I thought I wouldn’t be; afraid to speak out!
I strongly believe the key to language is confidence and practice, without these you fail to even give yourself the right frame of mind to absorb all you are learning. Don’t get me wrong, I have learnt a lot, and when I look back I cannot believe how far I have come. Especially as Spanish is a language I wasn’t affiliated with at all back in the UK, it was alien to me; no music or programmes in Spanish, in school we learnt French and Welsh as second languages, and I didn’t know any Spanish speakers. In a situation where you move countries, and are literally beginning again, there are so many things to adjust to; and the language is one of many, but the most important. I am in Spain therefore I need to speak Spanish! Life is difficult unless you are prepared to at least try to speak, and without confidence you are in trouble.
I feel learning a language should have been easy for me; my Mother’s family are fluent in Welsh, my Grand Mother is proficient in French and my Grand Father speaks Irish Gaelic! Yet, none of these people saw fit to pass along their knowledge! All of what has been learnt stays with them, they have chosen, even when they could have, not to teach others! Even learning that second language in school was difficult, it had a stigma attached. It is ridiculous to recall that 13 and 14 year olds attitude, but it wasn’t deemed cool. So, I scuppered my own learning when I had the chance, even though I was actually in top sets for both languages, and of course English. Yet, I refused to continue with learning a second language when I was given the option to. I wish I could return to that moment in time and say, ‘wake up fool you’ll need those languages one day and regret it’. I try not to regret anything, as the decision was made for a reason by a person I used to be, but I do regret that.
I know have a renewed opportunity to learn a second language, and I feel my mind and brain battle me all the way. Not because I can’t, but because I feel, just like the Spanish might about English; under confident in my abilities. I feel like a fool using a language I have such a small capacity to communicate fully in. I am frustrated; I understand written and even spoken Spanish (some people speak so fast it is difficult, but I will always get the gist of a conversation), yet, I cannot reply adequately or quickly enough! I speak so slowly, my mind translating everything and it often then forgets the initial question!!!! I feel stupid, like a little kid; so used to being eloquent in English I am struggling to prise myself away from my comfort blanket. It’s the feeling of beginning again; having the language ability of not even a 4 year old, it frightens me!
Language is complex, and how we absorb it is a complex process too. Maybe I am on a back-foot; I am not married to a native Spanish man, my friends here speak great English, which they have been learning and practicing since they were 11. I don’t like Spanish TV or music (sorry!), and I have no family members to pass on to me their built up knowledge. Yet, I think I have overcome obstacles as I have needed to, even as a complete beginner, but now my internal doubt is beginning to rear its head, and hamper my progress!
You see it is this confidence in speaking that troubles me. In Madrid I feel ridiculous going out and just striking up a conversation for the sake of it with a stranger, yet, if I could speak the language well enough I would! It is not that I am adverse in challenging myself; I speak whenever I can to whoever I can, I order food, food shop, visit the local markets, go out to have drinks, travel alone, shop for clothes and wander around the city. Basically I do whatever I would do naturally at home in the UK. In fact being in Madrid feels more like home than the UK, so it isn’t as though I feel uncomfortable. I love travelling, meeting new people and having new experiences; yet for all of this I am in a rut of self-conscious under confidence, which is not usual to me. I could literally slap myself for it!
I am so used to speaking to new people, my education and work has always dictated that; working in communities, for local Government and National Government projects, charities, and even as a tutor. Language is and always has been my strong hold though, and that is the problem; without my comfort blanket here in Madrid I feel I have lost my niche, my ability, a fundamental part of me! Who am I without my own language?!
When I do speak though, I am not a complete lost cause, I am usually understood! People have even mistaken me for a Spanish senorita! When out and about I am spoke to, I am asked various questions; when I say I am not Spanish or explain I am currently leaning the language they then look at me as though I am lying, I have to be Spanish! It is as though I am at odds; I seem Spanish, but I am not Spanish, I speak, but then I am too shy, I experience the new, but afraid of what might happen. Learning a language seems full of complex contradictions, it is easy to give advice and say what should be done, but every person reacts differently. I just wish there was magic spell to help me fathom it all out and send me on my way!
What I know I don’t want is to leave Madrid, and again, feel I have scuppered my own learning, feel bad about not just getting on with it like everyone else does! I want to liberate myself from my internal voice of doubt, I want to break free and learn! Yet, actions speak louder than words right?! I think I just need a final push, and one day it’ll click and make sense. Or, maybe I’ll wake up like Brendon Fraser in ‘Bedazzled’, and just be able to speak Spanish because of a magic spell! One can at least live in hope!
See below link for ‘Bedazzled’ Brendan Fraser and his miraculous ability to speak fluent Spanish! Extremely funny clip for all those frustrated in learning a new language!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd2RR4bO_9g&feature=related (link courtesy of memoring)
Please leave me your comments with your thoughts, experiences and any advice! Thanks for reading!
Learning; not just relegated to the classroom.
Above image from: simonox found on http://letspracticepresenttenses.blogspot.com.es
Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.
OK, Madrid has so many places to eat and drink, you could, in theory, eat out in a different restaurant or bar every night of the week! Whilst discussing food, I could therefore list hundreds of places to eat, but then you’d be bored, so whenever I talk about food I only want to include those good restaurants which have something different to offer the customer. At the end of this post, I will include a few more good places.
In this post I really wanted to present food from a different angle, looking at some varied types of places to visit, which will offer a different vibe and experience, which, I personally like visiting.
A note to add: I do try to keep any recommendations for places as informal as I can. I know that ‘top class’ food joints aren’t everyone’s cup of tea! They are, every now and again though, nice to at least try once! There are a few places I mention that might be seen as for ‘posh’ clientele only, but there are no V.I.P sections! The key in Madrid is to try anything at least once and form your own opinions.
Hints and tips, and my thoughts are added into the sections. Hope you enjoy reading, and it makes you feel as hungry as I felt typing out the information!
MARKETS:
Two words needed here; Mercado Torrijos!!! This market is situated on Calle del General Díaz Porlier, tucked in behind the large El Corte Ingles in Goya.
I found this market by chance wandering off the main roads of Goya. I love the vibe and culture surrounding the food markets here in Madrid. I enjoy visiting San Anton and San Miguel markets, (to be discussed later on in this post), but they are often crowded and bustling places, linked closely to the tourist trail, especially the latter. San Miguel can become so crowded that often it is a case of walking in and then out again! I wanted to find something more authentic, and nearer to my home!
I was naturally concerned, as even at home in the UK I use markets infrequently for shopping, such is the convenience of the wonderful world of supermarkets, but Madrid supermarkets are to me very frustrating! People assume supermarkets are the same all over the world, but they are not. The queues here are often a nightmare, especially in Carrefour. Even self-service at the larger Carrefour supermarkets are more inefficient than their counterparts in the UK. Therefore, knowing where there are reliable and friendly markets is a must.
I say friendly, because Mercado Torrijos is just that, and it is a relatively new to market in Madrid too; so quieter. I went there on my own, with what I’d class as a pretty basic command of spoken Spanish, but I got buy. I actually was surprised how eager the vendors there were to speak to me at length! I have to say I was impressed with the butcher stalls available, I bought some beautiful pork and the price was fantastic. Every-time I return the vendors remember who I am and chat away as though I have lived here all my life; a real treat for me as often I feel constraint because of my lack of Spanish communication skills!
The market has plenty of options; fish, fruit and veg, dried fruit (the largest dates I have ever seen in Madrid!) all types of meat, eggs, bread and also a health food shop too. There is also places to eat and sit and chat on the 2nd level, they sell food and drink so customers can have some time out from their shopping!
I cannot recommend this place enough!
Wesite: http://www.mercadodetorrijos.es/
San Anton Market, Chueca; situated really close to Chueca Metro Station.
This sprawling market covers 3 floors. First floor comprises of the traditional market where they sell meats, cheeses, fish, fruit and veg from all over the world. In fact this is one of the first places I actually bought Blueberries from, as in Madrid they are scare! Albeit, the Blueberries here tend to be very expensive; tiny pack for roughly 6 euros! I was desperate for my fix though!
The 2nd floor is where you can sample food from the mini restaurant stalls; Japanese, Italian and Greek specialties, seafood, chocolate, cakes and juices are all available to buy and then sit down and eat. The Sushi is lovely here; the staff are helpful too, as my Spanish isn’t word perfect. Oh, also the cakes and pastries here are to die for; just like in every place that sells such goodies though, utterly irresistible!
On the 3rd floor there is a terraced restaurant, La Cocina de San Antón. You can actually choose the product you want from the market stalls (meat or fish), and this restaurant will cook it for you! The staff of St. Anthony’s Kitchen will even advise you on the best way to prepare your purchase, what spices to use and even what sauces they recommend.
They also offer an extensive menu for lunch or dinner, either inside the restaurant or on its magnificent terrace, located looking out over the rooftops of Chueca. It is like entering some hidden inner sanctum, and although popular in the daytime it is pretty quiet. Nice to sit and relax sipping on one of their lovely Mojitos!
San Miguel Market, Plaza San Miguel (leading directly off the Plaza Mayor).
You cannot really miss this exquisite, and imposing structure built in glass and iron. Open Sunday to Wednesday 10am to 12pm, Thursday/ Friday and Saturday 10am to 2am.
The building alone is a must see, completed in 1916 it has gone through various refurbishment to accommodate the modern day requirements of the people of Madrid.
This market offers a range of high quality foods; fruit, veg, bocadillos, tortillas, cakes, juices, wines, sangria, fish, seafood, cheeses, meats, and sushi! It has over 33 vendors to choose from. What makes this experience a must is the crazy atmosphere, it is busy as it is popular with tourists and natives of Madrid alike.
It is a look, choose and taste environment unlike anything on offer in the UK! From the vendors you can order a little bit of whatever you want, and taste it there and then. There is a central eating area in the markets; seating and tables available for customers. You can order drinks too, and stay all night filling up your hungry stomach by just trying bits and bobs.
There are separate and smaller vendors dotted throughout the market too, who also sell small delicacies. There is one that sells amazing salted baked potatoes with a ‘special and secret’ spicy sauce which is to die for! There are so many interesting little canapés on offer from; salmon and caviar, an amazing selection of olives, cakes including macaroons and little biscuits.
There is so much variety of ‘tapas’ to choose from, and then eat as you walk onto the next vendor. Usually 1 euro will buy you a little item to eat, but it is worth it, as I have already mentioned the atmosphere is a must as it is what makes Madrid, Madrid! You have to experience this, just like you should experience tapas, Museo del Jamon and the Plaza del Sol!
The seating areas however, do become extremely busy as the time ticks by. Sometimes you are merely stuck in a crowd, and cannot really move about freely or get near the stalls to see and be served. That is the price you pay for popularity!
Below pic: Some of food options at San Miguel
SUPERMARKETS:
This may seem a mundane topic of discussion, but these are things rarely, if ever covered by travel information. I feel it is good to know where you can purchase snacks, water, alcohol and even toiletries.
As I have mentioned previously the supermarkets in Madrid are not like those in the UK. If you want something similar then you would have to visit one of the hyper markets outside the city limits! Carrefour, Dia, Simply and Open Cor (owned by El Corte Ingles) and Lidl are good options to purchase things cheaply, whilst in Madrid. They often have great quality wines, olive oils, conserves and chocolate for a reasonable price; think of gifts to return home with!
Dia and Simply are probably the best for price. If you are looking to buy whatever you may need then these are handy to know of. No need to worry about not speaking Spanish to order things either.
Carrefour have a good selection of products too, usually all supermarkets have some ‘deli-esque’ counters where you can choose your fresh meat and fish from. In Carrefour you have to weigh and price up your own fruit and veg though, so make sure you do it or they won’t sell it to you at the check-out!
Carrefour is usually busy, and the service in most supermarkets is slow, but at Carrefour there are self- service check-outs available, which have English speaking options. Notably the large Carrefour in Goya.
All supermarkets are usually open until 10pm, but Opencor closes at 2am. This again is a good option, but the goods here are mostly higher end food stuffs, and are more expensive than anywhere else. The thing to note is that buying alcohol after 10pm is not permitted in Madrid, so just in-case you feel like a late evening drink, buy it in earlier! Or, visit one of the many bars.
El Corte Ingles food court (Goya) is popular to have a drink at. I have never tried the food available in their restaurants so I cannot comment on service and so on. They also sell food stuffs too, though they are expensive! They do however sell British goods, and my beloved Macaroons! Though cheaper than some cake shops, the quality is not as good as the fresh versions. For fabulous cakes and pastries visit one of the many pastelerías or reposterías in Madrid.
While mentioning Macaroons, as ridiculous as it sounds, McDonalds near Atocha Station has a cake and coffee stand. Theirs are the cheapest Macaroons I have found in Madrid, instead of the usual 1 euro each or 26 euros (plus) a pack, they are 80 cents each! They taste great too. I love Macaroons!
Below pic: MACAROONS!!!!!!!!
CAFÉ SOCIETY:
VAIT, just on the junction of Calle Alcalá and Calle Alfonso XI.
It is a café, restaurant and cake shop. They sell the most fabulous Irish coffee; only one and you begin to feel tipsy! They also sell lovely sandwiches, a welcomed refreshment after a wander around Parque del Retiro! I really like this little place. It feels up-market, but the prices are good, the portions are plenty, the service is prompt and the staff are polite.
As I mentioned they are a cake shop too, and yes they sell Macaroons!
Faborit, various locations around Madrid.
These cafes are a similar set up to Star Bucks, but cheaper and they sell more food and drink options. You have a vast menu to choose from! There are a variety of hot or iced coffee and tea, juices, Frappe (Frappuccino), hot chocolates, yoghurts, vitamin juices, salads, sandwiches, bocadillos, wraps, cakes and biscuits.
NIGHT TIME:
Irish bars in Madrid, for those who cannot leave the taste of the UK behind!
Molly Malones, near the Metro Station Bilbao, around 12 minutes’ walk from Gran Via in central Madrid.
The bar has a wide selection of international beers (draft and bottle), whiskies and spirits. They also televise live sporting events and hold language exchange events every Thursday night. This is where people from all over the world come to speak English, and in-turn you can pick up Spanish, German, French, Italian and so on!
O’Neils, in the centre of Madrid, very close to Puerta del Sol.
Again similar to Molly Malones on the alcohol and sporting front! They also offer language exchanges too, helping anyone who wants to improve their Spanish. This a good place to meet new people from Madrid and from all over the world! The events run on Tuesdays after 9.00pm, just ask for David who organises the ‘intercambios’ or language exchanges.
You are also able to contact them prior to attending by sending an email to: intercambio@oneills.es.
O’Donnels, near the Metro Station Tribunal, around 12 minutes’ walk from Gran Via in central Madrid.
They run different promotions on food and drinks daily. All live sporting events are shown. Pacha nightclub is a few meters away; Metro Tribunal is just across the road.
What I will say is that the beer and spirits at these bars are expensive, as they are imports! For example a Guinness will be anything from 5 to 8 euros a pint. Stick to any deals on offer, Cañas or local beers like San Miguel to save some money!
J & J Books and Coffee, Calle Espiritu Santo, 47 a short walk from Noviciado Metro Station.
This is a café come bar which opens 11am and on Fridays closes at 1.30am. They speak English, and this is a place where anyone who wants to improve their English can visit. However, Wednesday and Thursday nights are their ‘intercambio’ evenings, so anyone wanting to improve English or Spanish can visit and practice to their hearts content over a beer, cocktail or coffee.
They also have thousands, and I mean thousands of books printed in English, which can be borrowed. They have quiz nights, special offers and you can even trade in your own spare books!
Check out their website for further information: http://www.jandjbooksandcoffee.com
Mala Fe Rock Bar, Calle del Escorial, 4
Open Thursday 9pm – 2am, Friday and Saturdays 10pm – 3:30am. The music is as it states; Rock, Metal and Indie. It is perhaps something different for the weekend! A good atmosphere, people are friendly. Only draw-back are the toilets; they are inadequate! There is only one ladies and one gent’s loo! This bar gets very busy too, so expect to queue to use the loo!
Check out their website for listings of what is coming up: http://www.malaferockbar.com/
Café 40, Gran Via
This place is something a Little different. A mix between a club and a restaurant. They have different events, gigs and DJs here. The food is good, but expensive; however they do have a weekend menu that offers a starter, main, desert and drink for 16.50 euros. They also offer a variety of food; Japanese and Chinese as well as salads and novelty beef burgers (with neon coloured buns). Not all the food portions are as large as they seem to be on the menu, so choose wisely as the prices may not be worth the meal! I usually choose from the ‘Salteados’ section of the menu – the Japanese dish listed there, which I have with egg noddles. This is a large portion, and very tasty!
Check out their website for events listings and menus: 40cafe.es/
Café Central, Plaza del Angel –
This is a great place to hear Jazz music in Madrid. The atmosphere is intimate and engaging. The stage is in close quarters to the audience; with tables and chairs all packed in tight together. You can also sit or stand at the bar. They sell food, which I have not tried. The drinks are quite reasonable, and waiters do come to your table to serve you, which is a benefit when the music begins to play!
I enjoyed it here, very relaxed and vibrant atmosphere. You will need to pay a ‘cover charge’ or entrance fee to watch the acts perform, usually 15 euros (give or take) I suggest getting there before 9pm to get a good seat.
Restaurant Kasanova, Alcalde Sainz de Baranda 25, near Ibiza Metro Station.
This is an Italian restaurant, but it is the drinks that attract me more than the food! Great selection of alcohol on offer, they house over 550 spirits here! Good news to all!
Cerveceria 100 Montaditos, various locations around Madrid.
A cheap place to grab a little bite to eat and a beer. They do ‘Jarras de Cerveza’ or large ‘pitchers’ of beer for a euro! They offer fries, crisps/chips and nachos, also bocadillos in vast varieties (though small portions, just enough as accompaniment to the beer). You order by usually filling out little paper dockets, marking what you, and then passing them to the bar. They will check your order with you. When your food is ready your name will be called out over the tannoy, you pick up your order from a little serving hatch! You can order however much you want, so although one little bocadillo is as cheap a 1.50 euros; it will obviously bump the price up the more you order.
CAKE, BAKERY AND CHOCOLATE SHOPS:
You cannot really walk for five minutes without spotting a cake, bakery or chocolate shop in Madrid! Bad news for those people who are watching their waist-lines; it can be the seventh circle of Hell for temptation! Shops display their tasty treats with utter perfection, luring you to an unexpected stop! The delicate and sumptuous appearances of the cakes, and chocolates in Madrid, will at some point force you to submit to that naughty inner voice and indulge!
La Mallorquina, Plaza de la Puerta del Sol, 8
Pricey, but temptingly, deliciously tasty. I am not a connoisseur of cakes, I haven’t a clue of any of the names of the particular delightful specialities or pastries on offer here, but anything sold here is divine! I just let my eyes do the choosing, and my stomach does the tasting! I am fascinated by the combinations and presentation of the goods though. Just be warned, the cakes and pastries look too good to leave behind, they have a way of calling out to you ‘please buy me’!
Moulin Chocolat (near Parque del Retiro) –
Simply divine gourmet cakes, sweets and macaroons! A little pricey, but so tempting.
Le Pain Quotidien, Calle de Fuencarral, 95
This place appears to be a stylish restaurant, which houses a good bakery and a ‘rustic’ dining area. The menu is something off the beaten track, offering different salads, lighter options, and tasty breads with conserves. The eggs Benedict is delightful! There are no bad food experiences to report here, however, disappointment comes in the form of the service. This place is popular, and they are aware how good their food is, which will make you want to return time and time again; but you can feel undervalued as a customer. It is almost as though you have to perform some type of magic to attract attention from the servers; this is a let-down!
VAIT, junction between Calle Alfonso XI and Calle Alcalá
I have already mentioned this one previously. The cakes, biscuits and pastries are amazing. I certainly cannot go in without stopping to stare at the selection, especially the macaroons. I would recommend a visit, and see how long you can resist purchasing something!
FINALLY; EVEN MORE FOOD:
After the last post I dedicated to food and drink I feel there are few more little gems to add to the list of restaurants.
Taberna Maceiras, Huertas, 66
Galician food; authentic, busy and lively. Not the place for a romantic meal! The food is excellent though, especially the seafood dishes. People are generally queuing to get in, although there are other restaurants nearby, which is a good sign! Locals enjoy it here, so you can get the feel of true Madrid. However, you can only pay in cash.
Carlos Tartiere Sidreria, Calle Menorca, 35,
Food from the Asturias. Need some understanding of spoken Spanish for this one, the menu appears to be printed in Spanish only. The food is excellent however, and generous portions. The staff are friendly too. Try the cider which they pour by holding the bottle above their head, and the glass below their waist. They pour the drink without looking at the glass, so be prepared to get a little cider splashed on you; all part and parcel of the unique dining experience!
The specialities include rice dishes, oven baked fish and meat, fabada (a rich and thick consistency Spanish bean stew with meats in it, and also one with clams in).
Kitchen open 12pm to 12am.
Website: There is an English version so you see in advance what they are serving to save the language barrier: http://www.restaurantecarlostartiere.com/en_index.php
El colmado, Calle de Juan de Urbieta, 4
Delicious food, served in what seems like it will be a humble setting. Great service, friendly staff. The food is quite daring, very tasty, great flavours. This is ‘fusion’ cuisine incorporating the best Caribbean recipes. Example of one of the dishes on offer; goat (kid) marinated in rum and oregano.
Tanta, Plaza del Peru, 1
Peruvian restaurant. The restaurant seems dark, but it spacious. Authentic food tastes; the grilled butter fish is great (pez mantequilla), try the Pisco sour to drink and also the potato bread. You will need to be able to speak and understand Spanish though, otherwise just wing it with ‘sign language’! It is worth the confusion of the language barrier! This is a busy place, but they don’t accept reservations, although there is plenty of room to accommodate diners. If you are visiting at Lunch time order from menu del dia (which will be cheaper), at night you have to choose from the regular menu, which is 35 euros per person roughly. The price of your meal can increase significantly if you don’t watch what you are ordering.
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