Día de los Muertos y Dia de Todos Los Santos


This will be my first year experiencing Day of the Dead, All Soul’s Day/All Saints Day in Spain. Funnily enough I haven’t spoken to any of my friends here about what is usually done to celebrate in Madrid. So consequently I have done some research, and this is what I have come with.

Oh, an interesting note to add before hand; Día de los Muertos has an uncanny resemblance to original Celtic celebrations, which were also celebrated on November 1st. The Celtic peoples honoured their dead; believing that November 1st was a day of transition between the old and the new. The people made offerings to their dead of fruit and vegetables; as those who had died (the spirits) would travel to the land of the dead together.

Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) it is traditionally a Mexican holiday on November 1st; family and friends come together to pray for, and remember friends and family members who have died.

Traditions connected with this holiday include building private altars to honour the deceased using sugar skulls, marigolds, along with favourite foods and beverages of the departed. Visiting graves with these as gifts is part of the celebration too. They also leave possessions of the deceased at the grave.

This holiday has its origins dating back hundreds of years; Aztec festivals for the Goddess Mictecacihuatl were the inspiration.

Day of the Dead has connection with the Catholic holidays of All Soul’s Day on November 2nd.

In Spain Dia de Todos Los Santos (All Saint’s Day) is celebrated on November 1st. In Madrid the 1st has been declared as a holiday, and most businesses will be closed.

Ofrendas (offerings) are made on this day to the dead. Friends and families visit the graves of their loved ones; to pray for them, leave candles and flowers. People will travel back to their home-towns, and villages to offer their respects also.

Presents are often given to children too; usually sweets and toys (similar to Halloween).

Streets are congested with cars heading to the cemeteries, out of the city. Florists sell more flower arrangements than at any other time of the year. Bakeries produce special orders of specific pastries like Hueso de Santos (Saint Bones). This pastry is traditional and made of marzipan, egg and sugar syrup.

People in Spain are frequently named after a saint. As is the case in many other Catholic countries; consequently people have their birthday, as well as their saint day, in honour of the saint they were named after.

Another little fact to add is that the play ‘Don Juan Tenorio’ is also traditionally performed during this time in Spain. In fact, once a year for over a century this tradition had taken place!

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Brain Plasticity – How Do We Learn?


Brain Plasticity – looks as complex as it sounds?

Well, last week I had my first official Intercambio meeting (Spanish and English language exchange), via a college here in Madrid. I have written about learning Spanish in a previous post, and the trials and tribulations of becoming accustomed to a new language and life setting. It is not as though I don’t use what Spanish I have learnt, or practice with others, but this Intercambio meeting was the first step in officially ratifying and testing my learning.

Needless to say I felt very nervous. One reason was the fact I didn’t know who I would be meeting with, and I couldn’t be certain whether we would have any common ground to even begin a conversation with. Secondly I really pinned my hopes on using this meeting as a vehicle to gain acquaintance with new people, and to continue to expand my networks; hence I really wanted the initial meeting to go well. Thirdly I was aware I was succumbing to my inner disappointments, because of my lack of Spanish language skills. I therefore felt I was going to be somehow inferior to everyone else present. I have this belief that everyone I meet has mastered a second or third language far better than I ever will; not a conducive thought for the learning processes to take hold (I know).

Anyway, I was eagerly punctual, as always and begun chatting to one of the staff at the college who is Romanian. He was trying to reassure me that it does take time to learn any language well enough to speak confidently, while proceeding to provide me with the same advice I usually receive; go out more and interact and listen to the language being spoken, watch television and listen to the radio. Basically submerse myself in the language on a daily basis.

Of course I agree with this, but again I seem to struggle, though admittedly I am not submerging myself enough.

However, I have reached a point where I am considering my brain’s capacity to actually learn a new language. Is it physically possible for me to learn a new language, have I the specific abilities required in this type of learning or is it merely my self doubt hindering my abilities because I insist on being under confident?

Learning is a complex, but it often happens without conscious recognition; it is something we do everyday without thought. I wondered how it was possible to even begin learning anything, how is learning made easy or completed by the brain. Well, after studying Psychology I know the scientific facts of how the brain absorbs and retains information; written, spoken, memories and actions. I have learnt about Neurons, Neural pathways and Synapses. Yet, how does what we learn, see or do actual stick; what acts do we complete whilst learning something to make the physical processes in the brain kick in?

I considered the theory of ‘brain plasticity’, I wondered if it were applicable. Put simply this theory states; plasticity is something that occurs when we engage in new learning and experience, the brain begins to establish neural pathways to compensate. Neural pathways or circuits are routes made of inter-communicating neurons. These routes are created in the brain through learning and practice; like retreading a path. Visual and auditory cortex’s can be involved in the process, as well as muscle memory. The more you revisit the new experience or learning activity, the stronger the connections become, the more efficient they are made and the faster cognition will become.

Sounds simple enough right?! Well, I now have begun to wonder if my brain has lost out on this plasticity malarkey. Just how much brain plasticity I have in reference to being able to learn new language skills?

Now I haven’t completed a scientific test, but surely not all people are able to learn and perfect everything? The scientific theory seems to make it all sound so easy; the old adage of practice makes perfect resonates throughout it. Yet, what if the practice itself is difficult? What if you prefer something more than the other, won’t that effect what and how you learn? How is it that I can read or watch something I find interesting in English, and retain the information immediately, and in Spanish I feel as though my brain resists the information and learning process?

Are some areas of learning or things to be learnt, just out of bounds for some people? I mean not everyone can dance, play guitar, recall their maths times tables; so cannot that be true of language?

I feel there is always a piece of the learning process missing when it comes to practising Spanish. I know practice and effort are the key, but also self belief, confidence and understanding what we are learning have importance too. Maybe they hold more importance than the actual effort and practice. From experience repetition and effort doesn’t always succeed in making learning kick in and stick. Or could it be that once you get past your teens learning becomes more difficult; because finding the time and head space to fully dedicate yourself, and concentrate completely on learning something new becomes more scarce?

Anyway, I intend to put the theories to the test, on myself in any-case. I have the opportunity to do so as the Intercambio meeting went well, and I will be meeting with a couple of people on a regular basis to practice Spanish. Hopefully I can then shock my brain into action or reaction! I don’t really want to seriously consider the fact that my brain might not have the capacity to learn a new language; that thought doesn’t appeal to me. I feel there has to be a way! I will therefore use all the learning techniques available to encourage plasticity. After all, I am Mistress over my own brain, or am I?

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

The ‘Real’ Madrid Experience – The Halloween Extravaganza


Now I know traditionally Halloween is not a Spanish past time. In fact, check the internet for ‘Ghost Tours’ or ghostly anecdotes regarding the city, and you won’t find any! Well, maybe one, regarding the haunting of the Casa de América on Paseo de Recoletos. In fact even making enquiries with people from Madrid about ghosts, and such like, produces strange and quizzical expressions, often followed by; ‘Don’t those type of things scare you’?

Me encanta (I love) Halloween!!!! It has been my favourite time of the year since I was a child. In fact I wasn’t certain what celebrating Halloween would be like in Madrid, so it is now that I find myself missing the UK most; well, at least the part of the UK I was raised anyway. Now there is a place where autumn truly is autumn! This dramatic change of season, for me, adds a touch of atmospheric dark romance to the run up to Halloween. The fragile trees, the colder weather, heavy clouded skies, the rugged scenery and the dark nights all lend their hands perfectly to the Halloween theme.

Madrid is not rugged, not surrounded by old graveyards and churches, cobbled streets, ancient houses, dark forests, rivers, valleys, mountains or fields; so then how can I celebrate Halloween here?!

Well, I may not be going the whole nine yards and re-decorating the house as a scene from a Hammer House of Horror film, but I have managed to find one concession towards making my Halloween feel like home. It is the humble Pumpkin! Don’t laugh, it may seem pathetic and childish, but I love carving Pumpkins for Halloween. It’s a ritual I have held onto for seven years, and I don’t intend to let it slip this year! This one little thing gets me in the Halloween ‘spirit’; so I say thank you Carrefour for stocking them!

Anyway, so what else does Madrid offer with Halloween in mind, well, seems like the other element missing here is ‘the’ party. Of course, on this front there is no need to worry; Madrid does parties probably better than anywhere else!

So, today I have been hunting high and low, not for ghosts and goblins though, but for the locations of these suitably scary parties and themed events.

Something Different:

Parque de Atracciones – Casa de Campo, Madrid
http://www.parquedeatracciones.es/

This theme park throws annual Halloween-fests which run on until 4th November. The park and grounds have been suitably redecorated and is hosting a wealth of Halloween treats such as; music, street entertainers and shows. Also, ensure you take a stroll through Zombie Town, and pay a visit their four interactive fright night experience ‘Haunted Houses’; Horror Circus, Necronomicon, Hospital of the Dead and The Old House.

Extremauncion – outside of Madrid on the A5 (Highway) passed Navelcamero
http://www.extremauncion.com/

A themed weekend of scary events in a remote location; Halloween dinner, drinks, a tour to set the ghostly scene, passage of terror in abandoned mansion, actors dressed to scare and camping out in a ‘haunted’ cemetery. It appears to be the complete Halloween experience in one, for a price.

The Halloween weekend will cost anything from; 70 – 80 Euros. Far cheaper if you just limit the experience to the passage of terror, seems to be roughly 6 Euros.

They do open every Saturday however, and the entry prices are not as steep ordinarily.

For their extra special Halloween-fest the dates are: 31st October to the 4th
November, and the price will be that bit extra.

In the evening the events are not suitable for children.

Enigmatium – Somewhere near to Plaza de Castilla
http://www.enigmatium.com/halloween-madrid.php

I say somewhere near Plaza de Castilla not to be facetious, but because two days before you are due to honour your reservation at the restaurant, you will receive the first clue as to where this restaurant is actually located.

The special Halloween events in this restaurant will be run 31st October / 3 and 4th November.

Check out their website for further details of the evening’s entertainment.

The Walking Dead Live (Zombies Laser Combat) – Esquivias which is 35km from Madrid A42 towards Toledo. http://www.iberikapaintball.com/paintballmadrid/paintballmadridhalloween.htm

There are limited places and ensure you wear Halloween costume as they have prizes for best dressed.

The price 49 – 69 Euros; this includes real-life zombie laser tag combat, open bar, dinner and extra after dinner surprises to test the attendee’s nerves.

Clubs and Festival:

Thriller Music Festival – Madrid Arena
http://thrillermusicpark.com/

Line-up:
Steve Aoki, Autoerotique, live PA by Army of the Universe, Ed is Dead and Julien Leik.

Tickets 22 Euros. Free drink for all who go in fancy dress, also competition for best dressed and the winner will receive 3,000 Euros.

Mondo – Calle Arlaban, 7, Madrid

31st October – DJ Hell

Siroco – Calle de San Dimas, Madrid

Music is usually; breaks, Electro-Pop, House

31st October – Fort Romeau, Hyman Bass, plus other guests.

Sala Lujuria (Creepy Halloween Party) – Leganitos, 7, Madrid

Music; Dubstep

31st October – Ruben G / MadBass.Madrid, 1st Degree / HDK.Madrid
Nubdub / HDK.Madrid, Skaar / HDK.Madrid

Puerta del Sol and Irish Bars:

27th October Halloween Pub Crawl – pick up point Plaza Mayor
http://www.getyourguide.com/madrid/skip-the-line-madrid-halloween-pub-crawl-t15281/

Start time is 22:00 at Tourist Information at Plaza Mayor.

Price is 24 Euros which includes; visit 3 bars and a club, free alcohol, VIP entry to the club, costume prizes.

Most Irish Bars in Madrid are holding some special event or another over Halloween; including fancy dress prizes, drink offers and special cocktails. Here are some of them below.

Dubliners – Espoz y Mina, 7, Madrid

O’Connell’s – (address as above)

O’Neills – Principe, 12, Madrid

Final Note:

I’m planning to do an updated version of this post, once I have sampled the fright night on offer here in Madrid. So with the Madrid party ethos in mind I intend to make the most of Halloween here this year, which will include donning the fancy dress, and taking a stroll around the streets to frequent the many bars. Then and only then will I truly know what my favourite day of the year is like in this crazy city!

!!!!!!Wishing you all a wonderful and happy Halloween!!!!!!

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Happy ‘Fiesta Nacional de España’ Everyone!!!!


Happy National Day!!

Hispanic Day (Día de la Hispanidad) or National Day (Fiesta Nacional de España) is an annual national public holiday in Spain on October 12. It commemorates when Christopher Columbus first set foot in the Americas in 1492.

The oh so severe looking Mr Columbus.

What Happens?

The King of Spain supervises the raising of the Spanish national flag in the centre of Madrid. He and the Prime Minister will then lead a military procession. This parade includes representatives from most of Spain’s military units and various military vehicles. Armed forces’ planes perform aerobatics above the parade route and display yellow and red smoke to represent the Spanish flag. Radio, television and Internet news services broadcast live on these events.

Another day off then?

Absolutely! Did you know that Madrid has celebrated 16 Public Holidays this year?! So many I feel I may have lost count and missed a few in-between!

Hispanic Day IS a day off work!!!! I would say normally spent at home, quietly, with family members and close friends, but, knowing Madrid I’d say more like an opportunity for a PARTY!

However, this afternoon, it is oh so quiet……

Generally many businesses and stores, except Opercor (super market) are closed. Public transport services have a reduced schedule too.

If National Day happens to fall on a Sunday, regional or local authorities can move the public holiday to a different date. Example: If October 12 falls on a Tuesday or Thursday, then many businesses and organisations will be closed on Monday October 11, or Friday 13 October.

Some people may use the long weekend to take a short vacation in Spain or abroad during these days. Either way it is ANOTHER excuse for a, party! ‘When in Rome’, well, Madrid anyway, it would be rude therefore NOT to follow their lead!

Nosotros no hablamos Inglés..….well, I only speak Spanglish, as English is my comfort blanket.


I have been thinking about living in Madrid, about learning the Spanish language and communication skills; how not being able to fully express myself in Spanish is often frustrating, and how I am reacting to having the comfort blanket of my native language taken away from me.

I recently read a blog by latinaish, the post was called ‘hablar o No hablar?’ I could identify with some of the points she raised. I felt inspired to offer a little bit of my own experience in learning a new language, and then trying to practice and use what I have learnt.

The people I have come into contact with in Madrid either speak no English, or have some command of the language. The younger generations have learnt English in school, but even they are quite self-conscious, under confident, shy or under practiced to use the English language. It is one thing to hear it spoken on a television programme or in a class room, and then to use it for real in a situation that isn’t scripted. I feel the same about Spanish; from the moment I begun learning the language I felt I ought to be immediately 100% proficient, and believed that in only a couple of months I would be reading Shakespeare in Spanish and debating politics! I was setting myself up for failure though, over pressuring myself to be word perfect on a two hour a week lesson!

I think I under estimated how important it is to be heard, to be understood and to interact. It is something I took for granted being an English speaker in the UK. It is an important part of our every-day, yet it is something we just do and think little of. I have never been the type of person to remain quiet in social situations, my life and work has always dictated otherwise. Yet, here in Madrid I find myself on the verge of becoming someone I thought I wouldn’t be; afraid to speak out!

I strongly believe the key to language is confidence and practice, without these you fail to even give yourself the right frame of mind to absorb all you are learning. Don’t get me wrong, I have learnt a lot, and when I look back I cannot believe how far I have come. Especially as Spanish is a language I wasn’t affiliated with at all back in the UK, it was alien to me; no music or programmes in Spanish, in school we learnt French and Welsh as second languages, and I didn’t know any Spanish speakers. In a situation where you move countries, and are literally beginning again, there are so many things to adjust to; and the language is one of many, but the most important. I am in Spain therefore I need to speak Spanish! Life is difficult unless you are prepared to at least try to speak, and without confidence you are in trouble.

I feel learning a language should have been easy for me; my Mother’s family are fluent in Welsh, my Grand Mother is proficient in French and my Grand Father speaks Irish Gaelic! Yet, none of these people saw fit to pass along their knowledge! All of what has been learnt stays with them, they have chosen, even when they could have, not to teach others! Even learning that second language in school was difficult, it had a stigma attached. It is ridiculous to recall that 13 and 14 year olds attitude, but it wasn’t deemed cool. So, I scuppered my own learning when I had the chance, even though I was actually in top sets for both languages, and of course English. Yet, I refused to continue with learning a second language when I was given the option to. I wish I could return to that moment in time and say, ‘wake up fool you’ll need those languages one day and regret it’. I try not to regret anything, as the decision was made for a reason by a person I used to be, but I do regret that.

I know have a renewed opportunity to learn a second language, and I feel my mind and brain battle me all the way. Not because I can’t, but because I feel, just like the Spanish might about English; under confident in my abilities. I feel like a fool using a language I have such a small capacity to communicate fully in. I am frustrated; I understand written and even spoken Spanish (some people speak so fast it is difficult, but I will always get the gist of a conversation), yet, I cannot reply adequately or quickly enough! I speak so slowly, my mind translating everything and it often then forgets the initial question!!!! I feel stupid, like a little kid; so used to being eloquent in English I am struggling to prise myself away from my comfort blanket. It’s the feeling of beginning again; having the language ability of not even a 4 year old, it frightens me!

Language is complex, and how we absorb it is a complex process too. Maybe I am on a back-foot; I am not married to a native Spanish man, my friends here speak great English, which they have been learning and practicing since they were 11. I don’t like Spanish TV or music (sorry!), and I have no family members to pass on to me their built up knowledge. Yet, I think I have overcome obstacles as I have needed to, even as a complete beginner, but now my internal doubt is beginning to rear its head, and hamper my progress!

You see it is this confidence in speaking that troubles me. In Madrid I feel ridiculous going out and just striking up a conversation for the sake of it with a stranger, yet, if I could speak the language well enough I would! It is not that I am adverse in challenging myself; I speak whenever I can to whoever I can, I order food, food shop, visit the local markets, go out to have drinks, travel alone, shop for clothes and wander around the city. Basically I do whatever I would do naturally at home in the UK. In fact being in Madrid feels more like home than the UK, so it isn’t as though I feel uncomfortable. I love travelling, meeting new people and having new experiences; yet for all of this I am in a rut of self-conscious under confidence, which is not usual to me. I could literally slap myself for it!

I am so used to speaking to new people, my education and work has always dictated that; working in communities, for local Government and National Government projects, charities, and even as a tutor. Language is and always has been my strong hold though, and that is the problem; without my comfort blanket here in Madrid I feel I have lost my niche, my ability, a fundamental part of me! Who am I without my own language?!

When I do speak though, I am not a complete lost cause, I am usually understood! People have even mistaken me for a Spanish senorita! When out and about I am spoke to, I am asked various questions; when I say I am not Spanish or explain I am currently leaning the language they then look at me as though I am lying, I have to be Spanish! It is as though I am at odds; I seem Spanish, but I am not Spanish, I speak, but then I am too shy, I experience the new, but afraid of what might happen. Learning a language seems full of complex contradictions, it is easy to give advice and say what should be done, but every person reacts differently. I just wish there was magic spell to help me fathom it all out and send me on my way!

What I know I don’t want is to leave Madrid, and again, feel I have scuppered my own learning, feel bad about not just getting on with it like everyone else does! I want to liberate myself from my internal voice of doubt, I want to break free and learn! Yet, actions speak louder than words right?! I think I just need a final push, and one day it’ll click and make sense. Or, maybe I’ll wake up like Brendon Fraser in ‘Bedazzled’, and just be able to speak Spanish because of a magic spell! One can at least live in hope!

See below link for ‘Bedazzled’ Brendan Fraser and his miraculous ability to speak fluent Spanish! Extremely funny clip for all those frustrated in learning a new language!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd2RR4bO_9g&feature=related (link courtesy of memoring)

Please leave me your comments with your thoughts, experiences and any advice! Thanks for reading!

Learning; not just relegated to the classroom.

Above image from: simonox found on http://letspracticepresenttenses.blogspot.com.es

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

The ‘Real’ Madrid Experience – Foodie Heaven


OK, Madrid has so many places to eat and drink, you could, in theory, eat out in a different restaurant or bar every night of the week! Whilst discussing food, I could therefore list hundreds of places to eat, but then you’d be bored, so whenever I talk about food I only want to include those good restaurants which have something different to offer the customer. At the end of this post, I will include a few more good places.

In this post I really wanted to present food from a different angle, looking at some varied types of places to visit, which will offer a different vibe and experience, which, I personally like visiting.

A note to add: I do try to keep any recommendations for places as informal as I can. I know that ‘top class’ food joints aren’t everyone’s cup of tea! They are, every now and again though, nice to at least try once! There are a few places I mention that might be seen as for ‘posh’ clientele only, but there are no V.I.P sections! The key in Madrid is to try anything at least once and form your own opinions.

Hints and tips, and my thoughts are added into the sections. Hope you enjoy reading, and it makes you feel as hungry as I felt typing out the information!

MARKETS:

Two words needed here; Mercado Torrijos!!! This market is situated on Calle del General Díaz Porlier, tucked in behind the large El Corte Ingles in Goya.

I found this market by chance wandering off the main roads of Goya. I love the vibe and culture surrounding the food markets here in Madrid. I enjoy visiting San Anton and San Miguel markets, (to be discussed later on in this post), but they are often crowded and bustling places, linked closely to the tourist trail, especially the latter. San Miguel can become so crowded that often it is a case of walking in and then out again! I wanted to find something more authentic, and nearer to my home!

I was naturally concerned, as even at home in the UK I use markets infrequently for shopping, such is the convenience of the wonderful world of supermarkets, but Madrid supermarkets are to me very frustrating! People assume supermarkets are the same all over the world, but they are not. The queues here are often a nightmare, especially in Carrefour. Even self-service at the larger Carrefour supermarkets are more inefficient than their counterparts in the UK. Therefore, knowing where there are reliable and friendly markets is a must.

I say friendly, because Mercado Torrijos is just that, and it is a relatively new to market in Madrid too; so quieter. I went there on my own, with what I’d class as a pretty basic command of spoken Spanish, but I got buy. I actually was surprised how eager the vendors there were to speak to me at length! I have to say I was impressed with the butcher stalls available, I bought some beautiful pork and the price was fantastic. Every-time I return the vendors remember who I am and chat away as though I have lived here all my life; a real treat for me as often I feel constraint because of my lack of Spanish communication skills!

The market has plenty of options; fish, fruit and veg, dried fruit (the largest dates I have ever seen in Madrid!) all types of meat, eggs, bread and also a health food shop too. There is also places to eat and sit and chat on the 2nd level, they sell food and drink so customers can have some time out from their shopping!

I cannot recommend this place enough!

Wesite: http://www.mercadodetorrijos.es/

San Anton Market, Chueca; situated really close to Chueca Metro Station.

This sprawling market covers 3 floors. First floor comprises of the traditional market where they sell meats, cheeses, fish, fruit and veg from all over the world. In fact this is one of the first places I actually bought Blueberries from, as in Madrid they are scare! Albeit, the Blueberries here tend to be very expensive; tiny pack for roughly 6 euros! I was desperate for my fix though!

The 2nd floor is where you can sample food from the mini restaurant stalls; Japanese, Italian and Greek specialties, seafood, chocolate, cakes and juices are all available to buy and then sit down and eat. The Sushi is lovely here; the staff are helpful too, as my Spanish isn’t word perfect. Oh, also the cakes and pastries here are to die for; just like in every place that sells such goodies though, utterly irresistible!

On the 3rd floor there is a terraced restaurant, La Cocina de San Antón. You can actually choose the product you want from the market stalls (meat or fish), and this restaurant will cook it for you! The staff of St. Anthony’s Kitchen will even advise you on the best way to prepare your purchase, what spices to use and even what sauces they recommend.

They also offer an extensive menu for lunch or dinner, either inside the restaurant or on its magnificent terrace, located looking out over the rooftops of Chueca. It is like entering some hidden inner sanctum, and although popular in the daytime it is pretty quiet. Nice to sit and relax sipping on one of their lovely Mojitos!

San Miguel Market, Plaza San Miguel (leading directly off the Plaza Mayor).

You cannot really miss this exquisite, and imposing structure built in glass and iron. Open Sunday to Wednesday 10am to 12pm, Thursday/ Friday and Saturday 10am to 2am.

The building alone is a must see, completed in 1916 it has gone through various refurbishment to accommodate the modern day requirements of the people of Madrid.

This market offers a range of high quality foods; fruit, veg, bocadillos, tortillas, cakes, juices, wines, sangria, fish, seafood, cheeses, meats, and sushi! It has over 33 vendors to choose from. What makes this experience a must is the crazy atmosphere, it is busy as it is popular with tourists and natives of Madrid alike.

It is a look, choose and taste environment unlike anything on offer in the UK! From the vendors you can order a little bit of whatever you want, and taste it there and then. There is a central eating area in the markets; seating and tables available for customers. You can order drinks too, and stay all night filling up your hungry stomach by just trying bits and bobs.

There are separate and smaller vendors dotted throughout the market too, who also sell small delicacies. There is one that sells amazing salted baked potatoes with a ‘special and secret’ spicy sauce which is to die for! There are so many interesting little canapés on offer from; salmon and caviar, an amazing selection of olives, cakes including macaroons and little biscuits.

There is so much variety of ‘tapas’ to choose from, and then eat as you walk onto the next vendor. Usually 1 euro will buy you a little item to eat, but it is worth it, as I have already mentioned the atmosphere is a must as it is what makes Madrid, Madrid! You have to experience this, just like you should experience tapas, Museo del Jamon and the Plaza del Sol!

The seating areas however, do become extremely busy as the time ticks by. Sometimes you are merely stuck in a crowd, and cannot really move about freely or get near the stalls to see and be served. That is the price you pay for popularity!

Below pic: Some of food options at San Miguel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SUPERMARKETS:

This may seem a mundane topic of discussion, but these are things rarely, if ever covered by travel information. I feel it is good to know where you can purchase snacks, water, alcohol and even toiletries.

As I have mentioned previously the supermarkets in Madrid are not like those in the UK. If you want something similar then you would have to visit one of the hyper markets outside the city limits! Carrefour, Dia, Simply and Open Cor (owned by El Corte Ingles) and Lidl are good options to purchase things cheaply, whilst in Madrid. They often have great quality wines, olive oils, conserves and chocolate for a reasonable price; think of gifts to return home with!

Dia and Simply are probably the best for price. If you are looking to buy whatever you may need then these are handy to know of. No need to worry about not speaking Spanish to order things either.

Carrefour have a good selection of products too, usually all supermarkets have some ‘deli-esque’ counters where you can choose your fresh meat and fish from. In Carrefour you have to weigh and price up your own fruit and veg though, so make sure you do it or they won’t sell it to you at the check-out!

Carrefour is usually busy, and the service in most supermarkets is slow, but at Carrefour there are self- service check-outs available, which have English speaking options. Notably the large Carrefour in Goya.

All supermarkets are usually open until 10pm, but Opencor closes at 2am. This again is a good option, but the goods here are mostly higher end food stuffs, and are more expensive than anywhere else. The thing to note is that buying alcohol after 10pm is not permitted in Madrid, so just in-case you feel like a late evening drink, buy it in earlier! Or, visit one of the many bars.

El Corte Ingles food court (Goya) is popular to have a drink at. I have never tried the food available in their restaurants so I cannot comment on service and so on. They also sell food stuffs too, though they are expensive! They do however sell British goods, and my beloved Macaroons! Though cheaper than some cake shops, the quality is not as good as the fresh versions. For fabulous cakes and pastries visit one of the many pastelerías or reposterías in Madrid.

While mentioning Macaroons, as ridiculous as it sounds, McDonalds near Atocha Station has a cake and coffee stand. Theirs are the cheapest Macaroons I have found in Madrid, instead of the usual 1 euro each or 26 euros (plus) a pack, they are 80 cents each! They taste great too. I love Macaroons!

Below pic: MACAROONS!!!!!!!!

CAFÉ SOCIETY:

VAIT, just on the junction of Calle Alcalá and Calle Alfonso XI.

It is a café, restaurant and cake shop. They sell the most fabulous Irish coffee; only one and you begin to feel tipsy! They also sell lovely sandwiches, a welcomed refreshment after a wander around Parque del Retiro! I really like this little place. It feels up-market, but the prices are good, the portions are plenty, the service is prompt and the staff are polite.

As I mentioned they are a cake shop too, and yes they sell Macaroons!

Faborit, various locations around Madrid.

These cafes are a similar set up to Star Bucks, but cheaper and they sell more food and drink options. You have a vast menu to choose from! There are a variety of hot or iced coffee and tea, juices, Frappe (Frappuccino), hot chocolates, yoghurts, vitamin juices, salads, sandwiches, bocadillos, wraps, cakes and biscuits.

NIGHT TIME:

Irish bars in Madrid, for those who cannot leave the taste of the UK behind!

Molly Malones, near the Metro Station Bilbao, around 12 minutes’ walk from Gran Via in central Madrid.

The bar has a wide selection of international beers (draft and bottle), whiskies and spirits. They also televise live sporting events and hold language exchange events every Thursday night. This is where people from all over the world come to speak English, and in-turn you can pick up Spanish, German, French, Italian and so on!

O’Neils, in the centre of Madrid, very close to Puerta del Sol.

Again similar to Molly Malones on the alcohol and sporting front! They also offer language exchanges too, helping anyone who wants to improve their Spanish. This a good place to meet new people from Madrid and from all over the world! The events run on Tuesdays after 9.00pm, just ask for David who organises the ‘intercambios’ or language exchanges.

You are also able to contact them prior to attending by sending an email to: intercambio@oneills.es.

O’Donnels, near the Metro Station Tribunal, around 12 minutes’ walk from Gran Via in central Madrid.

They run different promotions on food and drinks daily. All live sporting events are shown. Pacha nightclub is a few meters away; Metro Tribunal is just across the road.

What I will say is that the beer and spirits at these bars are expensive, as they are imports! For example a Guinness will be anything from 5 to 8 euros a pint.  Stick to any deals on offer, Cañas or local beers like San Miguel to save some money!

J & J Books and Coffee, Calle Espiritu Santo, 47 a short walk from Noviciado Metro Station.

This is a café come bar which opens 11am and on Fridays closes at 1.30am. They speak English, and this is a place where anyone who wants to improve their English can visit. However, Wednesday and Thursday nights are their ‘intercambio’ evenings, so anyone wanting to improve English or Spanish can visit and practice to their hearts content over a beer, cocktail or coffee.

They also have thousands, and I mean thousands of books printed in English, which can be borrowed. They have quiz nights, special offers and you can even trade in your own spare books!

Check out their website for further information:  http://www.jandjbooksandcoffee.com

Mala Fe Rock Bar, Calle del Escorial, 4

Open Thursday 9pm – 2am, Friday and Saturdays 10pm – 3:30am. The music is as it states; Rock, Metal and Indie. It is perhaps something different for the weekend! A good atmosphere, people are friendly. Only draw-back are the toilets; they are inadequate! There is only one ladies and one gent’s loo! This bar gets very busy too, so expect to queue to use the loo!

Check out their website for listings of what is coming up: http://www.malaferockbar.com/

Café 40, Gran Via

This place is something a Little different. A mix between a club and a restaurant. They have different events, gigs and DJs here. The food is good, but expensive; however they do have a weekend menu that offers a starter, main, desert and drink for 16.50 euros. They also offer a variety of food; Japanese and Chinese as well as salads and novelty beef burgers (with neon coloured buns). Not all the food portions are as large as they seem to be on the menu, so choose wisely as the prices may not be worth the meal! I usually choose from the ‘Salteados’ section of the menu – the Japanese dish listed there, which I have with egg noddles. This is a large portion, and very tasty!

Check out their website for events listings and menus: 40cafe.es/

Café Central, Plaza del Angel –

This is a great place to hear Jazz music in Madrid. The atmosphere is intimate and engaging. The stage is in close quarters to the audience; with tables and chairs all packed in tight together. You can also sit or stand at the bar. They sell food, which I have not tried. The drinks are quite reasonable, and waiters do come to your table to serve you, which is a benefit when the music begins to play!

I enjoyed it here, very relaxed and vibrant atmosphere. You will need to pay a ‘cover charge’ or entrance fee to watch the acts perform, usually 15 euros (give or take) I suggest getting there before 9pm to get a good seat.

Restaurant Kasanova, Alcalde Sainz de Baranda 25, near Ibiza Metro Station.

This is an Italian restaurant, but it is the drinks that attract me more than the food! Great selection of alcohol on offer, they house over 550 spirits here! Good news to all!

Cerveceria 100 Montaditos, various locations around Madrid.

A cheap place to grab a little bite to eat and a beer. They do ‘Jarras de Cerveza’ or large ‘pitchers’ of beer for a euro! They offer fries, crisps/chips and nachos, also bocadillos in vast varieties (though small portions, just enough as accompaniment to the beer). You order by usually filling out little paper dockets, marking what you, and then passing them to the bar. They will check your order with you. When your food is ready your name will be called out over the tannoy, you pick up your order from a little serving hatch! You can order however much you want, so although one little bocadillo is as cheap a 1.50 euros; it will obviously bump the price up the more you order.

CAKE, BAKERY AND CHOCOLATE SHOPS:

You cannot really walk for five minutes without spotting a cake, bakery or chocolate shop in Madrid! Bad news for those people who are watching their waist-lines; it can be the seventh circle of Hell for temptation! Shops display their tasty treats with utter perfection, luring you to an unexpected stop! The delicate and sumptuous appearances of the cakes, and chocolates in Madrid, will at some point force you to submit to that naughty inner voice and indulge!

La Mallorquina, Plaza de la Puerta del Sol, 8

Pricey, but temptingly, deliciously tasty. I am not a connoisseur of cakes, I haven’t a clue of any of the names of the particular delightful specialities or pastries on offer here, but anything sold here is divine! I just let my eyes do the choosing, and my stomach does the tasting! I am fascinated by the combinations and presentation of the goods though. Just be warned, the cakes and pastries look too good to leave behind, they have a way of calling out to you ‘please buy me’!

Moulin Chocolat (near Parque del Retiro) –

Simply divine gourmet cakes, sweets and macaroons! A little pricey, but so tempting.

Le Pain Quotidien, Calle de Fuencarral, 95

This place appears to be a stylish restaurant, which houses a good bakery and a ‘rustic’ dining area. The menu is something off the beaten track, offering different salads, lighter options, and tasty breads with conserves. The eggs Benedict is delightful! There are no bad food experiences to report here, however, disappointment comes in the form of the service. This place is popular, and they are aware how good their food is, which will make you want to return time and time again; but you can feel undervalued as a customer. It is almost as though you have to perform some type of magic to attract attention from the servers; this is a let-down!

VAIT, junction between Calle Alfonso XI and Calle Alcalá

I have already mentioned this one previously. The cakes, biscuits and pastries are amazing. I certainly cannot go in without stopping to stare at the selection, especially the macaroons. I would recommend a visit, and see how long you can resist purchasing something!

FINALLY; EVEN MORE FOOD:

After the last post I dedicated to food and drink I feel there are few more little gems to add to the list of restaurants.

Taberna Maceiras, Huertas, 66

Galician food; authentic, busy and lively. Not the place for a romantic meal! The food is excellent though, especially the seafood dishes. People are generally queuing to get in, although there are other restaurants nearby, which is a good sign! Locals enjoy it here, so you can get the feel of true Madrid. However, you can only pay in cash.

Carlos Tartiere Sidreria, Calle Menorca, 35,

Food from the Asturias. Need some understanding of spoken Spanish for this one, the menu appears to be printed in Spanish only. The food is excellent however, and generous portions. The staff are friendly too. Try the cider which they pour by holding the bottle above their head, and the glass below their waist. They pour the drink without looking at the glass, so be prepared to get a little cider splashed on you; all part and parcel of the unique dining experience!

The specialities include rice dishes, oven baked fish and meat, fabada (a rich and thick consistency Spanish bean stew with meats in it, and also one with clams in).

Kitchen open 12pm to 12am.

Website: There is an English version so you see in advance what they are serving to save the language barrier:  http://www.restaurantecarlostartiere.com/en_index.php

El colmado, Calle de Juan de Urbieta, 4

Delicious food, served in what seems like it will be a humble setting. Great service, friendly staff. The food is quite daring, very tasty, great flavours. This is ‘fusion’ cuisine incorporating the best Caribbean recipes. Example of one of the dishes on offer; goat (kid) marinated in rum and oregano.

Tanta, Plaza del Peru, 1

Peruvian restaurant. The restaurant seems dark, but it spacious. Authentic food tastes; the grilled butter fish is great (pez mantequilla), try the Pisco sour to drink and also the potato bread. You will need to be able to speak and understand Spanish though, otherwise just wing it with ‘sign language’! It is worth the confusion of the language barrier! This is a busy place, but they don’t accept reservations, although there is plenty of room to accommodate diners. If you are visiting at Lunch time order from menu del dia (which will be cheaper), at night you have to choose from the regular menu, which is 35 euros per person roughly.  The price of your meal can increase significantly if you don’t watch what you are ordering.

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

The ‘Real’ Madrid Experience – The Jewel in The Vintage Crown


I am aware that at the end of my last ‘Real’ Madrid Experience post, I promised I would write my next article about Madrid food markets, and I will don’t worry! Allow me to explain why there has been a delay in this proposed post; it is taking a little more time to collate all the information I require, because I want a fully formed and interesting article, not a rushed version. So, while I consider my follow up post about the markets, today allow me to lead you down a completely different shopping trail instead.

This topic is close to my heart, well, the area of shopping I’m focusing on anyway. I am not concentrating here on the run of the mill high street stores, no way, we’re going VINTAGE.

Beginnings:

I am aware that often the very idea of vintage shopping brings some people out in hives. The very notion of leaving the high street behind, the safe and reliable H&M, Zara, Pull & Bear, Berska and El Corte Ingles (as every street in Madrid has one of these, practically!), Topshop, River Island and Primark might make a person confused and fearful, but don’t worry, there is hope! Vintage shopping isn’t as bad as some people think it is, there is in fact plenty of wonderful and unique clothing pieces on offer, that will suit everyone’s taste, purse and not to mention size. So, rethink your aversion to vintage before we progress any further!

For a truly unique shopping experience then vintage is the real deal. The vintage shops of Malasaña (a barrio in Madrid) offer up that one of a kind item, which no one else will be wearing. That outfit that allows your individual identity to shine. The difference between vintage and high street doesn’t merely end in unique items, but also price too. The high street fashion stores, such as those mentioned above, are more expensive than the vintage stores here. Admittedly not all vintage is cheap, but for an extra price you can get not only a unique item, but a quality item too (again, this is rare to find in the high street stores).

Here in Madrid many people do tend to grab onto specific trends, and won’t deviate from them, they then end up wearing clothes similar to everyone else (all bought from the high street). Yet, in Malasaña and Chueca you will see fashion flair on every street corner, thanks to the vintage shops!

My Thoughts:

I believe Madrid does vintage better than anywhere else I know, even London! The reason being is that the shops here don’t mark up their prices just because something is classed as ‘vintage’, not like in the UK. The quality of goods available is beyond belief too, they don’t just sell any old rubbish and class it as vintage.

What makes Madrid the jewel in vintage crown for me is affordability! Good prices make the vintage shopping experience far more exciting, as any great find will be kinder on your wallet! The individuality of the style available within the vintage shops here, is sold to the customer for extremely good prices. These great prices ensure that the unusual remains accessible to all, and not just the ‘elite’ who have more money than sense! Vintage shops are not just the shopping ground of the rich in Madrid, and this is what I like the most.

There are a really good selection of vintage shops dotted about areas such as Chueca and Malasaña, which stock retro/second hand from the 1920’s up until the 1990’s (if you class 1990’s as retro). In fact anything second hand gets sold in these shops. I have on the rare occasion seen hand bags from ‘Primark’ being re-sold (unfortunately), so nothing is out of bounds in theory! However you can find exquisite pieces of vintage; leather hand bags, 1970’s hats and sunglasses from the 1950’s for better prices than any high street store can offer.

Every shop is slightly different on price though; some have better bargains to be found too. Again it depends on the items; leather coats and fur will have a price tag of more than 20 euros, but they will be far cheaper than if bought new from high street shops.

The Vintage Trail:

I am going to focus my vintage trail on the Malasaña barrio, more specifically, Calle Velarde. This street is near Tribunal and Bilbao Metro Stations, also not far from Calle Fuencarral . Below are some of my favourite vintage shops on this street.

Below pic: Calle Velarde

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Magpie Vintage –

If I had to give ONLY ONE vintage shop recommendation, then this would be it!

Just as the name suggests, this shop is perfect for those with Magpie tendencies; and can’t resist being attracted to something different. This is my favourite vintage/second hand shop in Madrid! They sell everything you could possibly want from day dresses, evening gowns, coats, hats, scarf’s, cardigans, jumpers, shoes, skirts, shirts and even jewellery; the selection is as vast as the eras represented in the clothing!

At the moment they have some lovely suede coats trimmed with fur, denim jackets, bolero jackets with embellishments sewed on, army jackets and of course a selection of second hand Dr Martens!

They also have a glass cabinet which houses the loveliest vintage accessories; the sunglasses are my favourite items. Sunglasses in Madrid are always an investment as the sun shines even in winter! They also have a host of leather handbags; their satchels are a great price for a one off vintage item which will last through the seasons.

There is a ‘bargain trunk’ too, which is worth rummaging through. There is often really great and cheap items to be found within! My friend found a lovely little purple leather handbag in the ‘bargain chest’ for 3 euros!

This shop is a MUST visit!

Check out their Facebook page and website/blog:     http://www.facebook.com/magpievintagemadrid?ref=ts&fref=ts

http://magpie.es/blog/

 

La Mona Checa –

This shop is just across the street from Magpie. Again a great little shop for a one off find! From jumpers and army surplus to fur coats and dresses. I spotted a great soft suede jacket with tassels whilst I was there over the weekend. They also have that essential ‘bargain trunk’ full of little surprises which are cheaper than the items on the racks! I am fond of the stray silk scarf’s I often find here, they are perfect as hair accessories.

Honey –

Another little vintage gem, packed with the unusual and stylish.

In between Honey and Biba, is a shop called ‘The The’ –

‘The The’ is quite specialised as they stock mainly leather, denim and army surplus. What they do here, which is different, is re-work the fabrics on site. They have sewing machines in situ! They re-create waist- coats/vests, shorts and shirts all from old denim. I really like this shop, but it can be a little pricier, because of the extra work put in to the goods!

Below pic: The shop that re-works denim, ‘The The’

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below pic: Just see inside ‘The The’ – the re-worked denim on the racks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Biba –

I also love this shop. In the summer they had a rack of the cutest 1950’s tea dresses with the quirkiest prints! They too stock handbags, accessories, shoes and chunky knit or embellished jumpers. You can find anything here, and the prices are good too. I actually bought a leather pencil skirt from here for 18 Euros; you cannot beat that price!

Pulgas –

This shop is aptly named; pulgas meaning fleas! I see this shop as treasure trove. I love going through the narrow, long shop just taking my time to rummage (which you have to do here). You have to be prepared to search, but when you do you’ll be surprised at what you find.

Clothes, bags, coats and God knows what else is all piled up high for your searching pleasure! They do have rails of clothes too, especially dresses; so don’t fret if rummaging for bargains isn’t your style! They also stock vintage house-hold items too, such as; ornaments, books and cameras!

What makes this shop truly individual to me is the vintage fur they sell. Now I am not a lover of fur, but if you have to purchase it, and fur is popular here in Madrid in the winter; then I would prefer anyone to buy the fur of animal who has been dead for decades, and not a newly killed animal!

I have seen long length fur coats in this shop that date back to the 1930’s, from American boutiques! The fur here is often re-worked into different items too. Any fur from this shop will be at a fraction of the price than its counter-part from the high street. An example of this; in this shop a long length fur coat is 300 euros, in the high street it will be anything from 2000 to 3000 Euros. There is a significant difference in price, and obviously you will be buying a piece of history, and not killing any more animals just for your fashion fancies.

Williamsburg Vintage –

Another little shop that sells everything from shirts to coats, at a good price.

Two More Great Finds:

Templo de Suso –  Calle del Espíritu Santo, 1

Has an American boho feel to me. It is like a 1960’s / 1970’s Rock-esque feel; think Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, The Doors and Woodstock! They sell dresses, coats, shirts, tee-shirts, leather and so on.

Lotta Vintage –  Calle Hernán Cortes, 9

Everything on their clothes racks are arranged according to colour! The closet to a high street shop out of all the vintage shops mentioned; very neat, organised and tidy, it is easy to find everything. Lotta has the longest and most prestigious vintage reputation in Madrid. It has everything you could need, and the eras they cover are 1950’s to the 1980’s.

They have a wonderful set of vintage glasses, a bit more pricey perhaps at 39 Euros, but the condition of them is perfect. One pair of fabulous sunglasses will set the tone to any outfit, and here in Madrid as I have mentioned already the sun shines even in winter; I am never without my vintage sunglasses!

Check out their website:    http://www.lottavintage.com/

Mercado de Fuencarral

Just a stone throw from Tribunal Metro Station is Calle de Fuencarral, where the above market is situated. This market has many different shops that sell something a little bit different, but in here they also house an army surplus shop; G.I.Joe Surplus. With army jackets being highly fashionable at the moment, this shop is worth considering along with the other vintage shops.

 

Hints and tips to buying vintage:

In most vintage shops you can try the outfit before you commit and buy; there are dressing rooms! I suggest you do try before you buy; check out what it looks like in the mirror. Remember vintage sizes can vary from the standard sizes we are used to now, although in the vintage shops I have seen more realistic and less vanity sizing going on. Also an interesting thing to note is that a UK size 18 isn’t difficult to source in the vintage shops, not as it might be in some high street alternatives.

If you do wish to impulse buy, and then want to return an item, check their returns policy first! Vintage shops often do offer a credit note or a swap for something of the same price (Magpie offer this), but they don’t usually offer money back refunds. You’ve been warned!

I also suggest to go into these shops with an idea of what you are looking for, for example a denim jacket. There is so much to see that you could be easily swayed and overwhelmed! You could end up thinking; ‘I’ll have that and that’ and then you get home and think, ‘um, what will this go with?’ Be savvy!

Vintage shops are excellent for material, fur, leather, shoes, denim and army surplus too.

Also, I have mentioned the ‘bargain trunks’ the vintage shops usually have. In them are sale items, or items reduced to clear, and you can secure a great little something for next to nothing! If you are looking for fabrics, or even something plain to add you own style to, then these are worth rummaging through.

Another thing to remember is that some shops in these ‘vintage’ districts are NOT vintage at all, but style themselves to appear vintage. You can always tell a vintage shop; the clothes and internal layout is a dead give away, but if you are not sure check the labels! Oh, and if it says polyester on the label, remember it won’t be a pre-1970’s item. I have seen some supposed 1940’s tea dress in polyester fabric, of course they would have been made in rayon in the 1940’s not polyester! Prices too are the final check to gauge if the place is vintage or not – pretend vintage is more expensive in Madrid than the real vintage.

Oh, and one final shop to mention, which isn’t a clothes shop, but a coffee shop where you can make your own ceramics, but I think it is wonderful; Pintas en Copas on Calle Velarde. Once your item is made you can let it bake on site, and pick it up a few days later. You can make anything including; plates, cups, teapots and even snails!

Check out their website for further details:   http://www.pintaencopas.com

Below pic: Pintas en Copas

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Why Are ‘Los Madrileños’ ALSO ‘Los Gatos’ (The Cats)?


I was having a conversation with a female friend who was born and bred here in Madrid, we were taking about the history of the city, and then she mentioned something very curious. Apparently people from Madrid are known as los gatos, or the cats! I was aware of the nickname ‘Madrileños’, but los gatos, it seemed a bizarre, but interesting analogy. So, being as inquisitive as I am I asked her to explain the origins of both nicknames.

The people of Madrid are known as ‘Los Madrileños’. The reason behind this is ‘Los Madriles’ or many Madrids, used to describe the various barrios in the city; hence the origins of ‘Los Madrileños’ as we know it.  Los Madrileños is the masculine form of the word; it would be used to describe the men of Madrid, but also a group of men and women. A group of women from Madrid would be called ‘Las Madrileñas’, the feminine form.

The nickname ‘Los Gatos’ however has two possible origins. One belief sees the nickname as a result of the wars of many centuries ago. It seems probable that the name could date back even as long ago as the Middle Ages. During battles the troops displayed amazing agility whilst scaling the walls of enemies strong holds, hence the name given to them, ‘Los Gatos’.

Another possible explanation for ‘Los Gatos’ originates from the fact that the people of Madrid indulge themselves in the thriving nightlife of the city. It is in a cat’s nature to be out and about on the streets from late at night until early morning; so too is it the nature of ‘Los Madrileños’.

Phew, mystery solved!

Below: Out on the town, Tom the cat all Zoot suited up and ready to party!

Above pic sourced from: http://soundcheck.wnyc.org/2011/aug/18/extremely-stylish-zoot-suit/

 

Information gathered from, and checked with the websites below. Oh, and not to forget my good friend Laura, who doesn’t mind me using her intel!

http://ml.hss.cmu.edu/ml/studyabroad-spain.html

http://www.city-data.com/world-cities/Madrid-Introduction.html

The ‘Real’ Madrid Experience – The hunger trail and well-kept food heaven secrets.


In this post I want to look at food and drinks! I am not going to concentrate solely on Tapas, yes, it will be included though! Madrid isn’t just tapas, though this is traditional fare here. I hope to provide ideas for the money conscious, vegetarian and also those who like a bit of spice. What will follow will be recommendations from me and my friends, who are Spanish and live in Madrid as I do. I hope this article will offer something a bit different, as I don’t want to take you down the already well-trodden tourist path. I hope to show Madrid from an insider view, or a more quirky view! That is why I have included a section ‘Something Secret’, the bar I mention there is NOT well-known and is a CLOSELY guarded Madrid secret!

Under Starters Orders:

Tapas is a brilliant thing, something very typical Spanish and not really a dish done well elsewhere. What makes tapas genius is that it is accessible to all who visit Madrid, without them necessarily even realising it. This is because in bars individual tapas dishes usually come served with your alcoholic drink, this is complimentary. Straight away they have you hooked, a cunning plan indeed! I have asked friends for the reasons behind this gesture; they told me that the Government here have realised people drink quite liberally, and they were afraid that people would become too drunk too quickly, so food is served as an accompaniment to slow the process of becoming drunk.

The tapas served with a drink will usually consist of nuts, olives and even crisps/chips and popcorn, but we have also had liver and kidney mixed up in an onion like stew, croquettes, patatas bravas, tortilla, bread, white bait, anchovies, chorizo, ham and cheeses.

Some of the most popular drinks to order here to accompany tapas are; Caña con Limón (beer with lemon such as Fanta), ‘claro’ (beer with a soda water) and tinto de verano (red wine and lemon, Fanta is used too). All very refreshing for the summer, and relatively inexpensive.

Nightlife Experiences:

Going out to a bar to have a drink is a far different type of environment than that usual to the UK. Firstly you don’t usually pay as soon as you order, the bill comes later when you leave, and this is true in restaurants and cafes too. Here in Madrid it is believed to be rude to ask for prompt payment! Of course there are those that then leave without paying!

It is not uncommon to sit outside on terraces flanking beautiful plazas; here you can see people having only one drink and chatting, and also see families together eating and drinking. Even the smallest of children accompany their parents, and often just sit or play while the elders chat. People tend to drink beer or wine with their snacks or food as we might have a soda or coffee; in fact I have ordered a coffee at 12:00 (lunch time), and been admonished by the waiter! Alcohol is common place here!

Going out times: 10:00 p.m is just when the party begins in Madrid. Places don’t often close until 3 a.m and then there after parties of course until 6 or 7 a.m.

Times to eat vary incredibly from the UK norm. Breakfast is generally 8-10 and may consist of tortilla, bread with an olive oil, garlic and tomato puree or sweet pastries. Lunch is usually 2- 4 in the afternoon, and during this time it is most common for restaurants to serve Paella. Dinner is anything from 8 -11 at night, and this is a family and friends affair; tapas usually being served to share. Children here don’t usually go to bed as they might in the UK for 7:00 p.m, they stay up to be with their families and eat.

A pincho: this is a small portion of something specific, for example, tortilla pincho. These dishes are paid for, not free with a drink. Same type of variety of foods on offer as tapas, but normally more bread involved to accompany the dish!

Places to eat and drink

Something cheap:

A great place to fill up for cheap is El Tigre bar, Calle Infantas in Chueca. The tapas given with each drink is nothing outlandish, but substantial!!! On one plate you will receive; bread, meats, patatas bravas, and croquettes, with sauces aplenty, enough to keep any starving individual full all night! 4.50 euros per person for dinner and a drink, not bad to save those pennies.

Above: example of the tapas available at El Tigre.

On the same street as El Tigre is El respiro and El Pezcador. OK these aren’t cordon bleu either, but these have ample tapas on hand with every drink served too. Again cheap and cheerful to keep your wallet and tummy happy.

Museo del Jamon, highly popular with locals; a great place to get into the Madrid vibe! The reason it is popular; beer and food are cheap, atmosphere = great! With a drink you get the usual tapas offered; only as they are a ‘meat market’ too, hence the ‘Jamon’ or ham in their name, they serve up chunks of chorizo and speciality hams (yum!)

I usually order the croissant ‘mixto’, which is a croissant with thinly carved ham and cheese; the cheese and hams are all local. I think it is delicious; the sweetness of the bread and savoury of the filling is a perfect combo at roughly 2.50 euros. Madrid is famous for its bocadillos though, they are everywhere! The Museo del Jamon serve bocadillos too, which are basically baguettes with fillings in; Calamares being a popular choice. Again cheap enough to fill a hungry tum!

The Museo de Jamon also have formal dining areas, a ‘salon’ which serves more formal meals, but the bar offerings are all I have needed.

What I love about this particular bar is its mad, but fab atmosphere! You have to be prepared to be shocked by how different it is compared to anywhere else you will have ever been. Don’t be intimidated, join the crowd at the bar, speak up and order what you want! It is packed at night and in the day; crowed with people who stay to drink and eat in what looks like a bar amid a meat market! The one off Puerta del Sol is my favourite! Though there are others to choose from dotted about the city.

Check out their website, a bit formal, but gives an idea:   http://www.museodeljamon.com/html/restaurante.html

 Across: Museo del Jamon

 

Another cheaper alternative is Cerveceria el Diario, Calle de Jesús (Calle de Huertas). Apparently it has been open since 1879. It serves excellent pinchos and beer. They have various deals, for example recently 6 large pinchos and drinks for 16 euros. The pinchos vary and are accompanied with bread, olives and crisps/chips. Very large helpings!!! There are tortillas, some with peppers, thick pieces of smoked salmon with avocados, crab meat and king prawns, roasted veggies, and also miniature beef burgers! I enjoyed it here and the staff were very friendly. It is a typical Tapas bar, but the décor is not so gaudy, IE, no stuffed bull heads were mounted on the walls, as in some bars on that street!

Below: Cerveceria el Diario

 

Something Historical:

If you want history then visit Café Gijón, Paseo de Recoletos; it is a culturally significant coffeehouse establish in 1888. After the Civil War it became a meeting place for intellectuals, writers and artists. It has an expensive reputation though; food has been said to be nothing special. Probably best to stick to the fixed menus, or Menú del Día (menu of the day) to save money.

Above:  Café Gijón

El Restaurante Botin, located off the Plaza Mayor (a short walk from Puerta del Sol where Museo del Jamon is located). It is the oldest working restaurant in the world founded by Jean Botín in 1725. Famous people from all over the world have visited it; writers, politicians, film stars and so on. Historical it maybe, but it also has a reputation as an expensive tourist trap. I have heard mixed reviews on the food and service too. Personally I choose to keep away from the restaurants flanking, and on the Plaza Mayor, as they tend to be tourist orientated and therefore not worth the money. One such restaurant on the Plaza Mayor itself charged me 22 euros for a plate of roasted peppers!

 Something Chic:

Wonderful Strawberry Mojitos are served at the Taberna Chica, Costanilla de San Pedro. Nice chill out bar, suitable to meet friends and chat.

El Almendro, Calle del Almendro. Known for typical Andulician food; very packed at the weekends though, and you will have to wait in queue for tables, which once secured are very small (in size)! The food is good enough though, and it is a little taste of the Spanish night life, but it can be expensive.

El Viajero, is a very popular bar with a wonderful roof terrace, urban chic at its best! Good for cocktails, and Pacharan which is local aniseed schnapps.

Above: view from the terrace at  El Viajero

Something Different:

At Plaza Olavide in Chamberí barrio there is what seems to be an inconsequential bar called Kybey 2. The bar is not elegant or chic, but it serves an award winning tortilla with green peppers. The menu also has the usual suspects; patatas bravas, croquettes and family size salads! It is very cheap though; we spent roughly 24 euros on the meal, very good value as we were full to burst upon leaving. Surrounding the Plaza are terraces where many other bars and restaurant’s reside; in summer this place is packed with people socialising, sitting outside and enjoying the cool breeze.

Above: Plaza Olavide

A short walk away from Plaza Olavide is Calle de Alburquerque, where Clamores Jazz club is located. An excellent and authentic little club; it is like something out of an ‘old school’ movie. Atmospheric and worth a visit.

Check out their website for listings: http://www.salaclamores.com/

Something Secret:

Casa Granada, Doctor Cortezo 17, just off the Plaza Tirso de Molina. It is a well-guarded Madrid secret!!!! Not on the usual tourist track at all. It is the view you go for, as it is basically situated inside a block of residential flats, which you have to buzz to gain entry to. It looks nothing special, but once up there the sunset over Madrid has never been so fantastic. They serve Andalusian food; generous portions but nothing fancy, try the ‘pimientos del pardon’ though. Don’t arrive after 7:30 or you’ll be queuing for a table on the terrace!

Something Veggie:

El granero de Lavapies, La calle Argumosa. This is an extremely popular choice of restaurant! You can be queuing even with a reservation. Reason being is that food is excellent, large portions and it is cheap; 10 euros for a 3 course meal.

Artemisa, Calle Ventura de la Vega; very popular and busy even on weekdays. Has a full menu to choose from of vegetarian and vegan dishes, plus a couple of meat options. Good portion sizes and excellent deserts too! The price of the food may seem a little expensive, but there is plenty of it, and of course you could opt for one of the sharing platters.

Check out their website for further details: http://restaurantesvegetarianosartemisa.com/

Hints and Tips:

When ordering any spirit such as Vodka and Whiskey check the prices before buying! A normal single shot in the UK is 25ml, here in Madrid the glass can be 250ml and they fill it half way with your chosen spirit! That explains the prices you will then pay which can be anything from 8 – 12 (plus) euros. We have paid over 50 euros for 2 drinks of Irish Whiskey in a bar in Puerta del Sol, so be warned!

Any imported alcoholic drink will be more expensive. With beer try to stick to the Spanish variety if you can, as that will be more like 2 euros a pint, whereas Guinness for example can be more like 6 euros a pint. Not too bad for one, but it will add up over the night!

Do you know about EL TENEDOR and RESTALO websites??? Both websites are useful for looking at where to eat for good prices. They allow you to search for what type of restaurants you want to eat in, and then also book the table! Ideal if you want to beat those queues! There are often great deals too, informing you what places have offers and discounts.

Food tastes: just want to mention that people often expect Spanish food to be laden with spices, perhaps chilies? Not the case, garlic yes, but chilies no. The food here is often mild to the taste-buds and not overly ‘hot’ and spicy. Patatas bravas (a tapas dish) often comes with a chili-esque sauce, but it is not exactly a Madras curry!

If however you want a ‘hot and spicy’ Madras curry, then there are many Indian Restaurants to choose from. Taj – La Taberna Del Prado Restaurant on Calle del Marqués de Cubas, and Bombay Palace on Calle del Ave María (near Paseo del Prado) are just two.

Chinese food is not overly enjoyed by the inhabitants of Madrid, but take heart as there are some Chinese restaurants out there! Buen Gusto is one located on Paseo Santa Maria de la Cabeza. This has been visited by the King of Spain, so if it is good enough for Royalty?! It is possibly walkable from the Atocha area (if you feel up to it!), but you can get there via the Metro. Head for Embajadores station, and walk towards the Calle de Embajadores (quite a long road), at the end of this street there is a roundabout, then look for the Paseo Santa Maria de la Cabeza. Enjoy!

There are plenty of Japanese restaurants to suit every purse though. Diverxo, Calle del Pensamiento, reachable via the Metro – station Cuzco. This restaurant has extremely good reviews.

Check out their website, as reservations will be required!    http://diverxo.com/

Final thoughts:

Some of the Spanish food available, tapas especially, might be a bit of a shock to some people’s palates! For the health conscious be warned that for cooking and dressing food, lots of olive oil is often used, also many dishes are fried or have some batter coating. There is always plenty of bread on offer too! You can always explain you would prefer a lighter option as you are dieting or whatever, but if you are not confident to do so there are plenty of options available to suit everyone’s tastes, so look again at the menu! Alternatively, most restaurants have menus printed in English! Strange combos of food also appear, at first they might not seem to naturally go together, but they can feature in the realm of tapas; lots of eggs, tuna and onions can be used in a variety of dishes, and might not be everyone’s cup of tea! There are also lots of meat and fish hidden in dishes; ask if you are not sure, hence where a bit of Spanish comes in handy. As I have already mentioned though, there are usually menu’s printed in English. A few other items to look out for are; tripe, kidney and liver, suckling pigs and rabbit – all popular in Madrid!

 

Next blog I will be focusing on; Irish Bars, Markets, Cake shops and Chocolatiers and Supermarkets.

 

 

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

The ‘Real’ Madrid Experience.


No need to break into cold sweats, I’m not going to be talking about Football!

I want to turn my attentions to discuss life in the Capital of Spain, Madrid. I hope to impart some of the experience and knowledge I have gained by living here. The topics I will try my utmost to include in these blogs are; my thoughts on the city, the culture, people, communities and local areas, shopping, heritage, history, politics, food and cuisine and so on.

Beginnings:

Some people may believe that Madrid is like any other tourist destination in Spain, similar perhaps to the Southern Coastal areas of the country such as Malaga, Benidorm, Menorca and so on. Well, the people who think that are wrong! Madrid isn’t anything like those Southern tourist ‘hot spots’, not that the ‘real’ Spanish residential areas of Malaga, Benidorm and Menorca are at all like the tourists think they are either! Spain has many faces to attract many people.

Madrid is a world away from other tourist hotspots situated in the South. It is a city where there is a subtle and obvious blend of the historical past and the extreme modern. Tourism is more refined here; the city doesn’t depend upon that alone. Madrid operates like any other capital; it is busy and on the move until the early hours, the streets are packed with people living their usual lives, there are fantastic architectural masterpieces, Government buildings and residential apartments, there are the elite boutiques, vintage shops and of course Primark! There are an abundance of cafes, restaurants, bars and clubs which cater for every taste and most cuisines. There are museums, art galleries, public parks and lots of traffic! A small thing to note is that ‘Roundabouts’ are called Glorietas here, the reason being I think is plainly clear, they are usually glorious to look at! Amid all the traffic there are fountains, statues and often vast structures, which are phenomenal pieces of work. A slight difference to anything I have seen in the UK or the USA.

Above: Glorieta Puerta de Toledo – one example of many such roundabouts scattered across Madrid.

The City:

The city streets are carved up into individual residential areas called; barrios. These barrios contribute their own individual feel and flavour to the city. I want to go into more details about these later, but for now I will mention only a few of the most well known and loved barrios.

Chueca: the Gay quarter. There are many excellent clubs and restaurants here. Small boutique shops and also a lovely market called ‘San Anton’. The market sells fresh produce, which can be sampled. On the middle level of the building there are stalls to purchase meals and places to eat, on the top level there is a fabulous restaurant with roof terrace.

Malasaña:  for the vintage and bohemian. Many excellent vintage stores, one of my absolute favourites resides here: ‘Magpie’. There are just too many little bars and cafes to mention, all with individual flair. There is also the ‘Plaza del Dos de Mayo’, where the people of Madrid resisted the French invasion of 1808 on the 2nd May, hence the name.

La Latina: for the party and good food. It hosts many beautiful plazas, churches and buildings. Also famous for ‘El Rastro’ a Sunday market unlike any other; stalls and people fill the streets; you can barter and buy anything here. Very good for leather bags and jewellery.

El Rastro: just a hint of the Sunday shopping madness!

Salamanca: known for its ‘high class’ reputation; exclusive shops line Calle Goya, and there are great places to eat. This area has many beautiful buildings and is host to the wonderful Parque del Retiro.

I want to discuss these areas, and many more, in further detail. I have, for now, over-simplified what the above barrios are famous for; Parque del Retiro for example could have a post dedicated specifically to it!! I will return to the topic of the barrios very soon.

Below: The ‘Boating Lake’ – a glimpse of the wonders held within Parque del Retiro.

Travel:

What makes this city accessible is the prompt, clean and safe Metro system (Trains, like the London Underground). I also think it is pretty inexpensive; 10 viajes (10 journeys) roughly 12 euros (subject to change) . This allows you to travel to most barrios within the city; certain areas do however carry an extra tariff, such as when going to Barajas Airport. The only disappointment on this is that now there have been cuts to the services on certain lines, during the early hours of the morning. For example, we were returning from a night out in Malasaña, it was relatively early 01:30, but the train wasn’t running so we had to use the bus. Again these too are excellent and prompt, but I have less knowledge of the buses than the Metro. The destination of each bus often runs on a similar route to the Metro service, so knowing this will help!

Personal Thoughts:

The last few things I will briefly touch upon in this post are some of my feelings about, and direct experiences of living in Madrid. I have enjoyed every day, and that I can say quite honestly! When I think back to just before we moved out here, how dire things were becoming, being here is like having a prayer answered. Our lives have changed and for the better. Every day is different as there is so much to see and do. Walking around is easy for me, I am based in the Salamanca area, so Retiro Park, Goya, even Puerta del Sol (another area to discuss later on!) are walkable. Our social life has never been better; the bars and restaurants can be cheap enough (which I will again go into in more detail!!!) I have seen more plays and musicals too, albeit in Spanish, than ever before! Everything is quite literally on your doorstep.

The only thing I do miss is the open countryside, or more importantly the variance the UK climate brings to the countryside and open spaces. Nothing is very green and lush here, the sun is persistent even in winter, and rain is not very often seen. The temperatures can be crazy hot! This August was extremely warm, more so than usual; 46 degrees (114 Fahrenheit), the temperatures don’t always desist as soon as autumn appears either!

Hints and Tips:

Another aspect to bring into consideration now is the language. We are learning Spanish at the moment, but getting to conversational level takes time, confidence, patience and practice! Most days I’ll admit I feel defeated! Yet, I persist as people here don’t always speak English; many people above the age of 40 don’t speak any. The reason for this is; the educational system, but also the time Franco (the dictator) spent in power here. Some of the younger people however do speak really good English, but are often too shy, under confident or under practiced to admit they do. What seems to work is attempting to speak to them in Spanish first, then you will notice they will be less shy to attempt to speak to you in English. In fact most people I have met to speak to, do have some, if not an extremely good understanding of English, once prompted! If you do plan to visit Madrid, I would suggest at least trying to learn or becoming familiar with the basics of how to say; hello, good day, how to order or ask for food and drinks. It is polite and also far less stressful! Youtube has plenty of beginner guides with pronunciation practice.

Also in Madrid the American accent is understood far better than the English accent! Spanish people often speak English with an American twang, because they have used American TV as a learning tool and reference point. Also American tourists outnumber the British!

Oh, the last thing for now, I PROMISE!!!! Public conveniences; might sound odd to mention such things, but then not many people do. I feel this needs mentioning, especially if you have never visited Spain or France before. Toilets are always accessed via the local bars, cafes and restaurants. You don’t have to be a customer to use them, but sometimes you will have to be. Starbucks and a few other well know places use codes to lock the loos up! There are public conveniences, portable types which you pay to use, but they are few and far between! I think the services at cafes and so on are far better as they are almost always cleaner!

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.