One Year In Madrid


Well, as it is coming up to my one year anniversary in the capital of Spain I thought I’d do a sort of recap of my time here that would also include some of the things I have learnt and my favourite places.

I am certain I have previously mentioned that I had visited Madrid about 3 times previous to officially moving here, so it was somewhat familiar to me. Yet, until you live in a place you never really know it, but upon writing that I know that I don’t know everything there is know about Madrid still!!! Life to me is a constant learning curve, so I always enjoy discovering something new, whether that is a word, a place or a shop!

I can say being here has been the best experience. I feel privileged that I have been provided with this ‘path’ to take in my life, as it was sorely needed. Somewhere someone had to be looking out for me, and I strongly believe that!

Concise Recap Of A Year:

I have learnt a language, and am still learning it. I have become familiar with a great city and feel at home here. I have met lots of people and made friends (I have 3 really good friends here, and in a city I think that is good going). I have a really good social life, and access to so many varied avenues of entertainment; even watching plays and musicals in Spanish has been great (though at first I doubted it could be)! I have been to so many places since moving here; the first 6 months was hectic!!! I have ticked off some of my ‘to do’s’ on my ‘bucket list’ and have more to also look forward to experiencing, such as a trip to Rome in December!!!!!! So excited about that!!!!

The advertisement for Grease, we went to see it in the summer at a theatre on Gran Via.

I have written about initial experiences in this post. You can read it to get more of a background of Madrid as a city:The Real Madrid Experience

A Change Of Scene:

I have even experienced the health care here. I don’t know whether I have written about my one and only (crossed fingers and hope I need never go again), hospital visit?? Again, I was lucky to have two Doctors and a nurse who spoke and understood English! I can’t fault the health care I had; it was as good as it gets when you’re ill and in need.

On Friday, I also finally managed to officially register to receive health care here!! A big YIPPEEE!!! It has been a long time in the waiting (a year nearly). From this I will then be able to have a Doctor at one of the Medical Centres here, and a Dentist. This does concern me though please me simultaneously; as there is no way my Spanish is ready to be tested to the extent of medical terminology! Another hurdle I may one day need to cross or hopefully not!

All in all I reflect back upon this year and feel proud of my achievements. Just being here is quite crazy! Since I was a little girl I hoped to be able to move away from the UK, but as I finished University and then began pursuing my career I doubted it would happen. Yet, 2011 was when the final change required occurred; for about 2 years previous I felt there would be a massive change, though I didn’t know what form that change would adopt. After a long time feeling as though my life was plunging into an abyss (dramatic but true), I am finally in the light again. I cannot be thankful enough for this opportunity and change.

I feel being in Madrid has made a positive impact and me and my life. I was taken from a bad setting where I felt there was nothing left, to something where there is always more.

Places I Love To Be:

OK, so Madrid has so much to offer and it isn’t always the hustle and bustle of city life that makes me love living here. I have read some reviews from tourists who criticise Madrid for not being very pretty, but I want to say that if they believe that is the case then they weren’t looking at the city properly, and didn’t get to know it well enough to comment!

So, I want to share some of my favourite places to be and to go to in the city, and the reasons why of course! These are the places that make this city great to me!

The Best View:

Best view of the city for me has to be the vista from the top of the Cathedral De Santa Maria La Real De La Almudena. This Cathedral adjoins the courtyard of the Palacio Real de Madrid, which is a stunning part of Madrid anyway! I remember visiting the Cathedral one morning and being the only person standing up there, accompanied only by the statues of the Saints. My stone companions and I were gazing out over the vast city beyond, and it was quite magical to be honest. In that moment it was the most tranquil setting, which induced the same effect onto me too. The view of the city and surrounding areas is fabulous, and cannot really be rivalled in my opinion mainly because of that perfect setting.

Part of the view from the Cathedral

 The Best Architecture:

I’m not a religious person, but the many churches of Madrid are architecturally beautiful and I would urge anyone to pay them a visit. The internal décor too is something quite exquisite, and there is always something about a church that instils awe within me. If there is a service being held too, this is the perfect time to go in and feel the atmosphere. In every city I have ever visited I always go to one of their churches, they are after all a significant part of any countries history. The Cathedral De Santa Maria is beautiful, but there are others also that I love; San Manuel y San Benito near Parque del Retiro, Monasterio De La Encarnacion near Opera, and San Jeronimo El real opposite Museo del Prado.

San Manuel y San Benito

The Best Open Space:

The best open space in Madrid has to be Parque del Retiro. Maybe I am biased as I live very near to it! What I was surprised at when I first visited was that there was a map giving directions, I didn’t realise how vast the place was! It is made up of walk ways, or avenues which are individually named. This park used to be part of the grounds of the original royal palace, and the grandness still lingers on.

Why I love Retiro Park so much is that there you can cycle, skate, skateboard, jog, run and even dance! It makes no difference whether it is dark or light! They also hold yoga, dance, jogging and skating classes, which you can join if you feel like having some company!

It is possible to hire a bike for next to nothing and just spend the day in the park, which we have done and I thoroughly enjoyed it as it added an extra dimension of exploration and I just felt somehow freer! There is also an outdoor gym, which is the best place in Madrid to see ‘Tableta de Chocolate’ or six packs!!! My British friends fell in love with this place in the summer! Ladies be warned!

There is a boating lake, and I have become quite proficient in rowing! I love it, in the summer it is wonderful, and it is great fun. I also love the huge monuments and colonnade to one side of the lake. It is a great place to sit and relax, read, write or even cycle through!

The Colonnade at Retiro Boating Lake

Also in the park there are many ‘wild’ domesticated cats that roam around with the cutest kittens ever! The park is also home to the red Squirrels, and they are not shy, in fact they are quite happy to pose for pictures. This summer we also saw a beautiful black swan, and I don’t think I have ever seen one before.

There is a smaller lake too where the Palacio de Cristal is situated. A lovely building to look at, in houses exhibitions too, but they aren’t worth the visit, yet the building makes up for any disappointment.

There are places to eat, drink and chill out within the park. We usually take a picnic and just sit at the many benches or on the grass areas. Local people also have parties and BBQ’s in the grounds, which is my plan for next summer!

There are also buskers, performance acts, art and photographic exhibitions, markets and anything in between! The park is a hive of activity and a community all on its own. I love being there!

A Statue To Just Admire:

This brings me to my favourite statue in Madrid.  El Angel Caído, or The Fallen Angel. Now I’m not going into too much detail about this yet, as I want to do a separate post dedicated to this statue. All I will say is my first visit to the park was a ‘pilgrimage’ to see this very statue for myself, as I love all things strange and spooky!

Down At The River:

Another great outdoor space which I enjoy cycling in is the Madrid Rio. It is a 10k stretch of park that runs alongside the Manzanares River and offers lots of recreational activities such as; tennis, rock climbing, a skate park and so on. I hire my bike from a rental store just off the River side, it is quite cheap too. People don’t just come here to be active though, in the summer months they also sunbathe close to the River, and they cool down by going into the many water fountains. It is known as ‘the Madrid beach’ because of this! It’s busy in the summer and for me not quite as charming as Retiro Park, but it has some places great little places of interest such as; Puente del Rey Bridge, Virgen del Puerto Chapel, Puente de Segovia bridge and Puente de Toledo Bridge, and the view of the Royal Palace is lovely.

View of Madrid ‘Rio’

The Most Novel Experience:

Another activity I think is a little novel for Madrid is the Teleferico, which are cable cars that run from Templo de Debod to Casa de Campo. They are an alternative, but more expensive travel option to the Campo area, but I used them just so I could again see Madrid from another perspective! The views are great, but to me it was more the oddity of being suspended in the air and travelling over Madrid that I enjoyed the most. Funnily enough it is quite tranquil too, although if you weren’t keen on heights you wouldn’t think so!

A hazy view of the Royal Palace taken from inside the cable cars.

The Coolest Little Café:

The coolest décor of any restaurant / café has to be Le Jardin Secreto on Calle de San Bernardino. This is why I love the place as it is just what is says it is, the secret garden, or an Alice in Wonderland experience. I love it there; it is quite magical and almost, romantic? I know it is an odd description to attach to a restaurant, but I just like how the place makes me feel. Even the tea things are mismatched and something fit for the Mad Hatter’s tea party, it is all a little bit fairytale!

They also offer a fabulous and wide list of drinks; over 25 varieties of hot chocolate, coffees, teas, cocktails alcoholic or not, wines, spirits and beers. Also they have deserts and cooked food. It is a small place though, but that doesn’t bother me so much as the interior has me hooked! It does become busy, very busy. We were last seated in one of the window nooks, and it was like being in our own little secret garden! I ordered a non-alcoholic cocktail made up with ice cream; delicious!

I would suggest arriving there early though, for 6:00, and if you do ever visit there and think a weekend would be a good idea, again get there early or make a reservation!

El Jardin Secreto; looks far more magical at night though!

My Favourite Cocktail:

The strangest cocktail I have tasted, and therefore it has to be my favourite is Leche de Pantera at the club of the same name in Moncloa. It is expensive cocktail, but it is roughly half a litre of alcohol, which is the oddest shade of green I have ever seen! Can’t describe the taste really, it is an odd mix of cinnamon and eggnog??

The Place To Find Anything:

The coolest shop I have found where it is possible to buy almost anything is Tiger. The one on Calle de Fuencarral near Bilboa Metro Station is my favourite because it is spread over two levels, yeh, more things to see and buy!

For those of you who don’t know this chain of shops they sell goods cheaply. Anything from art canvasses, paints, paint brushes, hair accessories, household goods, foods, wool, hats, glasses, candles; as I said anything really! I enjoy just browsing to see what items they have, but I can never leave there without buying something! This was the first place in Madrid I found dried chillies!

The Must See Market:

The best market in Madrid, well, it has to be Mercado San Miguel near Plaza Mayor. Although I have written a post which stated that this market it is on the tourist trail Foodie Heaven it is a must see whilst in Madrid, and is a thoroughly enjoyable place to be to feel the city’s true vibe. What I love about this place is the atmosphere, which cannot be rivalled as it is simply crazy!

I love browsing the stalls, sampling the food and having a drink. I just like to be there, even for 30 minutes or so to absorb the scene. It is busy, crazy, manic, and somewhat expensive and you’ll be lucky to ever get a seat to relax in, but it is worth spending some time and money just to be there. I usually get a little fidgety and begin feeling claustrophobic after the 30 minutes is up, as it is so packed in there, yet, you will never get bored!

My Favourite Stations:

My favourite metro station in Madrid is Goya, I love looking at every framed drawing of the said artist upon the walls. Doesn’t matter how many times I have been there, I still look at the drawings and think cool. Yet, Atocha train Station is my other favourite as it houses a whole garden, with trees and water features neatly installed. They even have live turtles and terrapins. It’s not like any train station I have ever visited before, so strangely subterranean!

The Best Museum:

My favourite museum to visit in the city is the Museo Romántico on Calle San Mateo. This is the closet thing I have found to the stately homes, manor houses and castles of the UK. I love it there, and am quite happy spending a few hours wandering about the rooms, lost in my own mind imagining what life would have been like living there in the 18th century.

This museum is dedicated to displaying a complete environment of how life was for the family who owned the house. The art is not static, like in any other museum in Madrid, but part and parcel of how the house would no doubt have looked during the time it was occupied. As I said it is like a stately home of the UK, but on a smaller scale. This is why I like it so much as the objects have a place, are in their proper context. It is interesting to see it and better than any modern art installation.

Inside The Romantic Museum

My Favourite Club:

My favourite club to visit at the weekends has to be Café Central. The atmosphere is so cool and relaxed and the live music is great. It doesn’t matter to me who are playing as they never disappoint. I get there 9:00 to ensure I get a seat! I like to be near the band, so early is good for me, as I don’t want to be standing up all night! The service here is great too, so I don’t ever have to leave my seat for food or drinks, and that aids the enjoyment of the music.

To me this club is like a quintessential 1920’s ‘joint’; there is just something about the place that makes we want to be there. It is situated off the Plaza Santa Ana too, which is a great place to eat and drink in Madrid anyway as the night-life is so lively.

A Night-time at Cafe Central when we went to see Lluis Coloma Trio

The Best Place To Clothes Shop:

My favourite place to shop for clothes is the vintage stores of Malasaña. I have written a post about this previously, so if you have read it then you will know how much I enjoy the variety and uniqueness these stores have to offer. If you haven’t then take a look as this will give you more information on vintage shopping in Madrid: The Jewel In The Vintage Crown

I love a good deal and something individual, and here is the only place in Madrid to find such things! They have things you can’t find anywhere else, and I would have been lost without my discovery of them!

What I Have Learnt:

Other than the language, I have learnt a bit about the culture of the people here in Madrid too; some of it good and some of it bad.

Street Etiquette:

Well, if you expect manners don’t be disappointed. People here are all about getting from A to B quickly and are not adverse in pushing you aside to get there that little bit quicker. On the pavements or sidewalks it is every man, woman, child and dog for themselves!

I had the false apprehension that people in Madrid would be ‘old school’ and brim with courtesy and politeness, how wrong I was. Even men will have no qualms on barging me out of their way, which to be honest, for me, says a lot about what type of men they are. Manners are free and I still adhere to them, so what if I am the only one!

Expect to see dogs everywhere. People in Madrid are crazy about pooches; it is dog friendly. They also do ‘their business’ wherever, so watch your step!

Another strange thing is that people may ignore you on the street, but once inside a building, inside an elevator, they expect you do greet them and also say goodbye. So for example ‘Hola, buenos dias’ and ‘Adiós’, also they may chat about the weather or any other small talk.

Shopping:

Whilst not having a car to rely upon I use the Metro or walk to supply myself with food. I was quite aghast that everyone seemed to make use of shopping trolleys’, which at home are considered the realm of the elderly. Anyway, I gave in after a few shop runs made me laden down with heavy bags. I had to invest in something cool to ferry my food about it though, so I opted for a purple trolley that I affectionately named ‘Henry’. He and I are now inseparable.

As there is no large supermarket near to me, I found locating all the foodstuffs I required a little difficult. I usually have to visit a couple of different supermarkets or shops to buy all that I require, plus I don’t find the food here to be cheap. If you want vegetarian or healthy options then you spend far more. That in itself is bad news. Plus the produce doesn’t last as long as it does in the UK. Within a few days I find fresh food is rotting in the fridge and that annoys me.

Health food shops are expensive too!!! I recently bought 100 Cranberry tablets for 18.90 Euros! In the UK you can easily buy them for £8, which is a significant difference.

Also, the Pharmacies in Madrid stock all the medicines, which keep the prices of the goods higher. Paracetamols, antacid, cough medicine and so on can only be purchased via the chemist. This annoys me; I suppose it is the inconvenience of having to shop in so many shops for separate supplies of goods. Too used to Tescos than maybe good for me!

Night-life:

Night-life culture too is a different here. I have mentioned this before in a previous post: The Hunger Trail

People in Madrid eat at different times to most people in the UK and also children aren’t in bed by set times like people may expect them to be. It is not uncommon to see kids out with families eating out at 11:00. In fact on Saturday I saw a baby being pushed around and it was 1:30am. Another thing is that people often just go out and don’t really ‘dress to the nines’, often wearing very casual clothing to be out and about even on Saturday nights.

Demure:

Talking about clothing; I also thought that people in Madrid would be more ‘demure’ in their dress sense, well, the women anyway. I was again wrong. The summer months proved that women here are just as risky in their choice of clothes as they maybe in any other country. It was not uncommon to see a flash of ‘posterior’ on the Metro.

Noise:

Noisy neighbours are also not uncommon in Madrid. I have heard plenty of tales of people complaining about these facts. Many people generally tend not to give their neighbours much consideration. I have already mentioned that the times people are eating reflect the times they actually go to bed, late. It is quite normal for people to be eating at 2:00am and still up and about at 3:00am, but the also go to work in the mornings! Also, living in an apartment tends to be noisy generally, but given the fact that some apartments are situated above shops, bars, cafes and also car garages and workshops, they can be noisy places to live and try to sleep!!

I know it took me a fair few months to become accustomed to hearing other people at all hours of the night and day, I am so used to a house on a quiet street!

Protests:

To witness protests being staged in the city has also become quite the norm. I was surprised at first at how frequent a protest would occur, but also inspired to see how the country reacts against what they believe to be political injustices. Obviously the economic crisis has been given lots of press coverage throughout the world, and so too has the Spanish reaction to it.

Saturday I saw another protest, well, of sorts. My friend told me it was a fascist protest. A certain group here in Madrid still celebrate or honour the life and death of Franco (the Dictator) who died 20th November 1975. I couldn’t quite understand why they would want to remember him fondly.

Holidays:

Religious holidays and public holidays; wow, there has been so many this year! I think I read that Spain is runner-up, only second in the world out of all countries for having the most public holidays per year. Maybe next year they will top the polls!!!

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The ‘Real’ Madrid Experience – The Halloween Extravaganza


Now I know traditionally Halloween is not a Spanish past time. In fact, check the internet for ‘Ghost Tours’ or ghostly anecdotes regarding the city, and you won’t find any! Well, maybe one, regarding the haunting of the Casa de América on Paseo de Recoletos. In fact even making enquiries with people from Madrid about ghosts, and such like, produces strange and quizzical expressions, often followed by; ‘Don’t those type of things scare you’?

Me encanta (I love) Halloween!!!! It has been my favourite time of the year since I was a child. In fact I wasn’t certain what celebrating Halloween would be like in Madrid, so it is now that I find myself missing the UK most; well, at least the part of the UK I was raised anyway. Now there is a place where autumn truly is autumn! This dramatic change of season, for me, adds a touch of atmospheric dark romance to the run up to Halloween. The fragile trees, the colder weather, heavy clouded skies, the rugged scenery and the dark nights all lend their hands perfectly to the Halloween theme.

Madrid is not rugged, not surrounded by old graveyards and churches, cobbled streets, ancient houses, dark forests, rivers, valleys, mountains or fields; so then how can I celebrate Halloween here?!

Well, I may not be going the whole nine yards and re-decorating the house as a scene from a Hammer House of Horror film, but I have managed to find one concession towards making my Halloween feel like home. It is the humble Pumpkin! Don’t laugh, it may seem pathetic and childish, but I love carving Pumpkins for Halloween. It’s a ritual I have held onto for seven years, and I don’t intend to let it slip this year! This one little thing gets me in the Halloween ‘spirit’; so I say thank you Carrefour for stocking them!

Anyway, so what else does Madrid offer with Halloween in mind, well, seems like the other element missing here is ‘the’ party. Of course, on this front there is no need to worry; Madrid does parties probably better than anywhere else!

So, today I have been hunting high and low, not for ghosts and goblins though, but for the locations of these suitably scary parties and themed events.

Something Different:

Parque de Atracciones – Casa de Campo, Madrid
http://www.parquedeatracciones.es/

This theme park throws annual Halloween-fests which run on until 4th November. The park and grounds have been suitably redecorated and is hosting a wealth of Halloween treats such as; music, street entertainers and shows. Also, ensure you take a stroll through Zombie Town, and pay a visit their four interactive fright night experience ‘Haunted Houses’; Horror Circus, Necronomicon, Hospital of the Dead and The Old House.

Extremauncion – outside of Madrid on the A5 (Highway) passed Navelcamero
http://www.extremauncion.com/

A themed weekend of scary events in a remote location; Halloween dinner, drinks, a tour to set the ghostly scene, passage of terror in abandoned mansion, actors dressed to scare and camping out in a ‘haunted’ cemetery. It appears to be the complete Halloween experience in one, for a price.

The Halloween weekend will cost anything from; 70 – 80 Euros. Far cheaper if you just limit the experience to the passage of terror, seems to be roughly 6 Euros.

They do open every Saturday however, and the entry prices are not as steep ordinarily.

For their extra special Halloween-fest the dates are: 31st October to the 4th
November, and the price will be that bit extra.

In the evening the events are not suitable for children.

Enigmatium – Somewhere near to Plaza de Castilla
http://www.enigmatium.com/halloween-madrid.php

I say somewhere near Plaza de Castilla not to be facetious, but because two days before you are due to honour your reservation at the restaurant, you will receive the first clue as to where this restaurant is actually located.

The special Halloween events in this restaurant will be run 31st October / 3 and 4th November.

Check out their website for further details of the evening’s entertainment.

The Walking Dead Live (Zombies Laser Combat) – Esquivias which is 35km from Madrid A42 towards Toledo. http://www.iberikapaintball.com/paintballmadrid/paintballmadridhalloween.htm

There are limited places and ensure you wear Halloween costume as they have prizes for best dressed.

The price 49 – 69 Euros; this includes real-life zombie laser tag combat, open bar, dinner and extra after dinner surprises to test the attendee’s nerves.

Clubs and Festival:

Thriller Music Festival – Madrid Arena
http://thrillermusicpark.com/

Line-up:
Steve Aoki, Autoerotique, live PA by Army of the Universe, Ed is Dead and Julien Leik.

Tickets 22 Euros. Free drink for all who go in fancy dress, also competition for best dressed and the winner will receive 3,000 Euros.

Mondo – Calle Arlaban, 7, Madrid

31st October – DJ Hell

Siroco – Calle de San Dimas, Madrid

Music is usually; breaks, Electro-Pop, House

31st October – Fort Romeau, Hyman Bass, plus other guests.

Sala Lujuria (Creepy Halloween Party) – Leganitos, 7, Madrid

Music; Dubstep

31st October – Ruben G / MadBass.Madrid, 1st Degree / HDK.Madrid
Nubdub / HDK.Madrid, Skaar / HDK.Madrid

Puerta del Sol and Irish Bars:

27th October Halloween Pub Crawl – pick up point Plaza Mayor
http://www.getyourguide.com/madrid/skip-the-line-madrid-halloween-pub-crawl-t15281/

Start time is 22:00 at Tourist Information at Plaza Mayor.

Price is 24 Euros which includes; visit 3 bars and a club, free alcohol, VIP entry to the club, costume prizes.

Most Irish Bars in Madrid are holding some special event or another over Halloween; including fancy dress prizes, drink offers and special cocktails. Here are some of them below.

Dubliners – Espoz y Mina, 7, Madrid

O’Connell’s – (address as above)

O’Neills – Principe, 12, Madrid

Final Note:

I’m planning to do an updated version of this post, once I have sampled the fright night on offer here in Madrid. So with the Madrid party ethos in mind I intend to make the most of Halloween here this year, which will include donning the fancy dress, and taking a stroll around the streets to frequent the many bars. Then and only then will I truly know what my favourite day of the year is like in this crazy city!

!!!!!!Wishing you all a wonderful and happy Halloween!!!!!!

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© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

Nosotros no hablamos Inglés..….well, I only speak Spanglish, as English is my comfort blanket.


I have been thinking about living in Madrid, about learning the Spanish language and communication skills; how not being able to fully express myself in Spanish is often frustrating, and how I am reacting to having the comfort blanket of my native language taken away from me.

I recently read a blog by latinaish, the post was called ‘hablar o No hablar?’ I could identify with some of the points she raised. I felt inspired to offer a little bit of my own experience in learning a new language, and then trying to practice and use what I have learnt.

The people I have come into contact with in Madrid either speak no English, or have some command of the language. The younger generations have learnt English in school, but even they are quite self-conscious, under confident, shy or under practiced to use the English language. It is one thing to hear it spoken on a television programme or in a class room, and then to use it for real in a situation that isn’t scripted. I feel the same about Spanish; from the moment I begun learning the language I felt I ought to be immediately 100% proficient, and believed that in only a couple of months I would be reading Shakespeare in Spanish and debating politics! I was setting myself up for failure though, over pressuring myself to be word perfect on a two hour a week lesson!

I think I under estimated how important it is to be heard, to be understood and to interact. It is something I took for granted being an English speaker in the UK. It is an important part of our every-day, yet it is something we just do and think little of. I have never been the type of person to remain quiet in social situations, my life and work has always dictated otherwise. Yet, here in Madrid I find myself on the verge of becoming someone I thought I wouldn’t be; afraid to speak out!

I strongly believe the key to language is confidence and practice, without these you fail to even give yourself the right frame of mind to absorb all you are learning. Don’t get me wrong, I have learnt a lot, and when I look back I cannot believe how far I have come. Especially as Spanish is a language I wasn’t affiliated with at all back in the UK, it was alien to me; no music or programmes in Spanish, in school we learnt French and Welsh as second languages, and I didn’t know any Spanish speakers. In a situation where you move countries, and are literally beginning again, there are so many things to adjust to; and the language is one of many, but the most important. I am in Spain therefore I need to speak Spanish! Life is difficult unless you are prepared to at least try to speak, and without confidence you are in trouble.

I feel learning a language should have been easy for me; my Mother’s family are fluent in Welsh, my Grand Mother is proficient in French and my Grand Father speaks Irish Gaelic! Yet, none of these people saw fit to pass along their knowledge! All of what has been learnt stays with them, they have chosen, even when they could have, not to teach others! Even learning that second language in school was difficult, it had a stigma attached. It is ridiculous to recall that 13 and 14 year olds attitude, but it wasn’t deemed cool. So, I scuppered my own learning when I had the chance, even though I was actually in top sets for both languages, and of course English. Yet, I refused to continue with learning a second language when I was given the option to. I wish I could return to that moment in time and say, ‘wake up fool you’ll need those languages one day and regret it’. I try not to regret anything, as the decision was made for a reason by a person I used to be, but I do regret that.

I know have a renewed opportunity to learn a second language, and I feel my mind and brain battle me all the way. Not because I can’t, but because I feel, just like the Spanish might about English; under confident in my abilities. I feel like a fool using a language I have such a small capacity to communicate fully in. I am frustrated; I understand written and even spoken Spanish (some people speak so fast it is difficult, but I will always get the gist of a conversation), yet, I cannot reply adequately or quickly enough! I speak so slowly, my mind translating everything and it often then forgets the initial question!!!! I feel stupid, like a little kid; so used to being eloquent in English I am struggling to prise myself away from my comfort blanket. It’s the feeling of beginning again; having the language ability of not even a 4 year old, it frightens me!

Language is complex, and how we absorb it is a complex process too. Maybe I am on a back-foot; I am not married to a native Spanish man, my friends here speak great English, which they have been learning and practicing since they were 11. I don’t like Spanish TV or music (sorry!), and I have no family members to pass on to me their built up knowledge. Yet, I think I have overcome obstacles as I have needed to, even as a complete beginner, but now my internal doubt is beginning to rear its head, and hamper my progress!

You see it is this confidence in speaking that troubles me. In Madrid I feel ridiculous going out and just striking up a conversation for the sake of it with a stranger, yet, if I could speak the language well enough I would! It is not that I am adverse in challenging myself; I speak whenever I can to whoever I can, I order food, food shop, visit the local markets, go out to have drinks, travel alone, shop for clothes and wander around the city. Basically I do whatever I would do naturally at home in the UK. In fact being in Madrid feels more like home than the UK, so it isn’t as though I feel uncomfortable. I love travelling, meeting new people and having new experiences; yet for all of this I am in a rut of self-conscious under confidence, which is not usual to me. I could literally slap myself for it!

I am so used to speaking to new people, my education and work has always dictated that; working in communities, for local Government and National Government projects, charities, and even as a tutor. Language is and always has been my strong hold though, and that is the problem; without my comfort blanket here in Madrid I feel I have lost my niche, my ability, a fundamental part of me! Who am I without my own language?!

When I do speak though, I am not a complete lost cause, I am usually understood! People have even mistaken me for a Spanish senorita! When out and about I am spoke to, I am asked various questions; when I say I am not Spanish or explain I am currently leaning the language they then look at me as though I am lying, I have to be Spanish! It is as though I am at odds; I seem Spanish, but I am not Spanish, I speak, but then I am too shy, I experience the new, but afraid of what might happen. Learning a language seems full of complex contradictions, it is easy to give advice and say what should be done, but every person reacts differently. I just wish there was magic spell to help me fathom it all out and send me on my way!

What I know I don’t want is to leave Madrid, and again, feel I have scuppered my own learning, feel bad about not just getting on with it like everyone else does! I want to liberate myself from my internal voice of doubt, I want to break free and learn! Yet, actions speak louder than words right?! I think I just need a final push, and one day it’ll click and make sense. Or, maybe I’ll wake up like Brendon Fraser in ‘Bedazzled’, and just be able to speak Spanish because of a magic spell! One can at least live in hope!

See below link for ‘Bedazzled’ Brendan Fraser and his miraculous ability to speak fluent Spanish! Extremely funny clip for all those frustrated in learning a new language!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vd2RR4bO_9g&feature=related (link courtesy of memoring)

Please leave me your comments with your thoughts, experiences and any advice! Thanks for reading!

Learning; not just relegated to the classroom.

Above image from: simonox found on http://letspracticepresenttenses.blogspot.com.es

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.

The ‘Real’ Madrid Experience – The Jewel in The Vintage Crown


I am aware that at the end of my last ‘Real’ Madrid Experience post, I promised I would write my next article about Madrid food markets, and I will don’t worry! Allow me to explain why there has been a delay in this proposed post; it is taking a little more time to collate all the information I require, because I want a fully formed and interesting article, not a rushed version. So, while I consider my follow up post about the markets, today allow me to lead you down a completely different shopping trail instead.

This topic is close to my heart, well, the area of shopping I’m focusing on anyway. I am not concentrating here on the run of the mill high street stores, no way, we’re going VINTAGE.

Beginnings:

I am aware that often the very idea of vintage shopping brings some people out in hives. The very notion of leaving the high street behind, the safe and reliable H&M, Zara, Pull & Bear, Berska and El Corte Ingles (as every street in Madrid has one of these, practically!), Topshop, River Island and Primark might make a person confused and fearful, but don’t worry, there is hope! Vintage shopping isn’t as bad as some people think it is, there is in fact plenty of wonderful and unique clothing pieces on offer, that will suit everyone’s taste, purse and not to mention size. So, rethink your aversion to vintage before we progress any further!

For a truly unique shopping experience then vintage is the real deal. The vintage shops of Malasaña (a barrio in Madrid) offer up that one of a kind item, which no one else will be wearing. That outfit that allows your individual identity to shine. The difference between vintage and high street doesn’t merely end in unique items, but also price too. The high street fashion stores, such as those mentioned above, are more expensive than the vintage stores here. Admittedly not all vintage is cheap, but for an extra price you can get not only a unique item, but a quality item too (again, this is rare to find in the high street stores).

Here in Madrid many people do tend to grab onto specific trends, and won’t deviate from them, they then end up wearing clothes similar to everyone else (all bought from the high street). Yet, in Malasaña and Chueca you will see fashion flair on every street corner, thanks to the vintage shops!

My Thoughts:

I believe Madrid does vintage better than anywhere else I know, even London! The reason being is that the shops here don’t mark up their prices just because something is classed as ‘vintage’, not like in the UK. The quality of goods available is beyond belief too, they don’t just sell any old rubbish and class it as vintage.

What makes Madrid the jewel in vintage crown for me is affordability! Good prices make the vintage shopping experience far more exciting, as any great find will be kinder on your wallet! The individuality of the style available within the vintage shops here, is sold to the customer for extremely good prices. These great prices ensure that the unusual remains accessible to all, and not just the ‘elite’ who have more money than sense! Vintage shops are not just the shopping ground of the rich in Madrid, and this is what I like the most.

There are a really good selection of vintage shops dotted about areas such as Chueca and Malasaña, which stock retro/second hand from the 1920’s up until the 1990’s (if you class 1990’s as retro). In fact anything second hand gets sold in these shops. I have on the rare occasion seen hand bags from ‘Primark’ being re-sold (unfortunately), so nothing is out of bounds in theory! However you can find exquisite pieces of vintage; leather hand bags, 1970’s hats and sunglasses from the 1950’s for better prices than any high street store can offer.

Every shop is slightly different on price though; some have better bargains to be found too. Again it depends on the items; leather coats and fur will have a price tag of more than 20 euros, but they will be far cheaper than if bought new from high street shops.

The Vintage Trail:

I am going to focus my vintage trail on the Malasaña barrio, more specifically, Calle Velarde. This street is near Tribunal and Bilbao Metro Stations, also not far from Calle Fuencarral . Below are some of my favourite vintage shops on this street.

Below pic: Calle Velarde

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Magpie Vintage –

If I had to give ONLY ONE vintage shop recommendation, then this would be it!

Just as the name suggests, this shop is perfect for those with Magpie tendencies; and can’t resist being attracted to something different. This is my favourite vintage/second hand shop in Madrid! They sell everything you could possibly want from day dresses, evening gowns, coats, hats, scarf’s, cardigans, jumpers, shoes, skirts, shirts and even jewellery; the selection is as vast as the eras represented in the clothing!

At the moment they have some lovely suede coats trimmed with fur, denim jackets, bolero jackets with embellishments sewed on, army jackets and of course a selection of second hand Dr Martens!

They also have a glass cabinet which houses the loveliest vintage accessories; the sunglasses are my favourite items. Sunglasses in Madrid are always an investment as the sun shines even in winter! They also have a host of leather handbags; their satchels are a great price for a one off vintage item which will last through the seasons.

There is a ‘bargain trunk’ too, which is worth rummaging through. There is often really great and cheap items to be found within! My friend found a lovely little purple leather handbag in the ‘bargain chest’ for 3 euros!

This shop is a MUST visit!

Check out their Facebook page and website/blog:     http://www.facebook.com/magpievintagemadrid?ref=ts&fref=ts

http://magpie.es/blog/

 

La Mona Checa –

This shop is just across the street from Magpie. Again a great little shop for a one off find! From jumpers and army surplus to fur coats and dresses. I spotted a great soft suede jacket with tassels whilst I was there over the weekend. They also have that essential ‘bargain trunk’ full of little surprises which are cheaper than the items on the racks! I am fond of the stray silk scarf’s I often find here, they are perfect as hair accessories.

Honey –

Another little vintage gem, packed with the unusual and stylish.

In between Honey and Biba, is a shop called ‘The The’ –

‘The The’ is quite specialised as they stock mainly leather, denim and army surplus. What they do here, which is different, is re-work the fabrics on site. They have sewing machines in situ! They re-create waist- coats/vests, shorts and shirts all from old denim. I really like this shop, but it can be a little pricier, because of the extra work put in to the goods!

Below pic: The shop that re-works denim, ‘The The’

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Below pic: Just see inside ‘The The’ – the re-worked denim on the racks

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Biba –

I also love this shop. In the summer they had a rack of the cutest 1950’s tea dresses with the quirkiest prints! They too stock handbags, accessories, shoes and chunky knit or embellished jumpers. You can find anything here, and the prices are good too. I actually bought a leather pencil skirt from here for 18 Euros; you cannot beat that price!

Pulgas –

This shop is aptly named; pulgas meaning fleas! I see this shop as treasure trove. I love going through the narrow, long shop just taking my time to rummage (which you have to do here). You have to be prepared to search, but when you do you’ll be surprised at what you find.

Clothes, bags, coats and God knows what else is all piled up high for your searching pleasure! They do have rails of clothes too, especially dresses; so don’t fret if rummaging for bargains isn’t your style! They also stock vintage house-hold items too, such as; ornaments, books and cameras!

What makes this shop truly individual to me is the vintage fur they sell. Now I am not a lover of fur, but if you have to purchase it, and fur is popular here in Madrid in the winter; then I would prefer anyone to buy the fur of animal who has been dead for decades, and not a newly killed animal!

I have seen long length fur coats in this shop that date back to the 1930’s, from American boutiques! The fur here is often re-worked into different items too. Any fur from this shop will be at a fraction of the price than its counter-part from the high street. An example of this; in this shop a long length fur coat is 300 euros, in the high street it will be anything from 2000 to 3000 Euros. There is a significant difference in price, and obviously you will be buying a piece of history, and not killing any more animals just for your fashion fancies.

Williamsburg Vintage –

Another little shop that sells everything from shirts to coats, at a good price.

Two More Great Finds:

Templo de Suso –  Calle del Espíritu Santo, 1

Has an American boho feel to me. It is like a 1960’s / 1970’s Rock-esque feel; think Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, The Doors and Woodstock! They sell dresses, coats, shirts, tee-shirts, leather and so on.

Lotta Vintage –  Calle Hernán Cortes, 9

Everything on their clothes racks are arranged according to colour! The closet to a high street shop out of all the vintage shops mentioned; very neat, organised and tidy, it is easy to find everything. Lotta has the longest and most prestigious vintage reputation in Madrid. It has everything you could need, and the eras they cover are 1950’s to the 1980’s.

They have a wonderful set of vintage glasses, a bit more pricey perhaps at 39 Euros, but the condition of them is perfect. One pair of fabulous sunglasses will set the tone to any outfit, and here in Madrid as I have mentioned already the sun shines even in winter; I am never without my vintage sunglasses!

Check out their website:    http://www.lottavintage.com/

Mercado de Fuencarral

Just a stone throw from Tribunal Metro Station is Calle de Fuencarral, where the above market is situated. This market has many different shops that sell something a little bit different, but in here they also house an army surplus shop; G.I.Joe Surplus. With army jackets being highly fashionable at the moment, this shop is worth considering along with the other vintage shops.

 

Hints and tips to buying vintage:

In most vintage shops you can try the outfit before you commit and buy; there are dressing rooms! I suggest you do try before you buy; check out what it looks like in the mirror. Remember vintage sizes can vary from the standard sizes we are used to now, although in the vintage shops I have seen more realistic and less vanity sizing going on. Also an interesting thing to note is that a UK size 18 isn’t difficult to source in the vintage shops, not as it might be in some high street alternatives.

If you do wish to impulse buy, and then want to return an item, check their returns policy first! Vintage shops often do offer a credit note or a swap for something of the same price (Magpie offer this), but they don’t usually offer money back refunds. You’ve been warned!

I also suggest to go into these shops with an idea of what you are looking for, for example a denim jacket. There is so much to see that you could be easily swayed and overwhelmed! You could end up thinking; ‘I’ll have that and that’ and then you get home and think, ‘um, what will this go with?’ Be savvy!

Vintage shops are excellent for material, fur, leather, shoes, denim and army surplus too.

Also, I have mentioned the ‘bargain trunks’ the vintage shops usually have. In them are sale items, or items reduced to clear, and you can secure a great little something for next to nothing! If you are looking for fabrics, or even something plain to add you own style to, then these are worth rummaging through.

Another thing to remember is that some shops in these ‘vintage’ districts are NOT vintage at all, but style themselves to appear vintage. You can always tell a vintage shop; the clothes and internal layout is a dead give away, but if you are not sure check the labels! Oh, and if it says polyester on the label, remember it won’t be a pre-1970’s item. I have seen some supposed 1940’s tea dress in polyester fabric, of course they would have been made in rayon in the 1940’s not polyester! Prices too are the final check to gauge if the place is vintage or not – pretend vintage is more expensive in Madrid than the real vintage.

Oh, and one final shop to mention, which isn’t a clothes shop, but a coffee shop where you can make your own ceramics, but I think it is wonderful; Pintas en Copas on Calle Velarde. Once your item is made you can let it bake on site, and pick it up a few days later. You can make anything including; plates, cups, teapots and even snails!

Check out their website for further details:   http://www.pintaencopas.com

Below pic: Pintas en Copas

Copy Right Notice:
© Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita, 2012. Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to Bex Houghagen and The Savvy Senorita with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.